Photography has been one of the most sought-after hobbies. And it's not a cheap one. For someone who just became an enthusiast in capturing photographs, the dilemma is finding the right camera.
One of the great debates is between the two great camera manufacturers-- Canon and Nikon. Which one best suits you?
In our series of articles, our guest photo enthusiast will be giving an educational review, but this will not be a "Canon vs Nikon" thing. We will be posting Nikon and Canon photo comparisons for you to ponder. Discussions of said topics are most welcome.
Moreover, we will be cutting this article in segments for deeper comprehension and allowing you to discuss further per comparative basis.
For professional photographers, amateurs (like our author, as he claims to be), enthusiasts and newbies, this is a good read. So, keep posted!
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Cameras Used for Comparison:
Canon EOS 5D Mark II
Nikon D3S
1. SKIN TONE TEST
Model: Joseph Carlo Gochangko aka kangkong
I see shades of RED, something I think my 5D2 does not produce. The red shades were not visible in the D3S' LCD preview. And also, the preview was almost overexposed, yet, when I opened this in Adobe Lightroom, i still need to add up +0.50 on exposure.
Obviously this is not the usual skin tone color you see in most of my photos (check
www.litoinso.com)
1/80s, f2.8, ISO 1600, Daylight WB, Portrait picture control, RAW (NEF).
Nikon D3S, Nikkor 24-70mm 2.8. Apple 30" HD Cinema Display + Datacolor Spyder3 Elite (software v4) with brightness setting at 120.
I won't be talking too much technical stuff here. This is based on what and how I see it and based on my own perspective.
2. COLOR TONE TEST
direct link to a bigger image:
http://www.litoinso.com/pics/nikon_t...stuff_toys.jpg
Settings:
1/80s, f3.5, ISO640, WB-5100K. Nikkor 24-70 2.8 and Canon EF 24-70 2.8.
According to my set of eyes, the Canon image is the closest to actual. I tried to modify the D3S' picture control by dropping some SATURATION points. By dropping all the way to zero (-3 saturation), again to my set of eyes, it's the closest to Canon's color / actual scene
For me, in taking images. The closest it is to what your eyes see (assuming you are not color blind), is the BETTER product. Same with printing, assuming you have a well calibrated H-IPS monitor. The closest the actual print (w/ the right light) to what you see in your monitor, is a better printer.
Basically if your image becomes better to look at or colors become brighter in print, your printer is defective / non-standard or not calibrated. That's why when doing big prints, I go to Jan Gonzales (
www.jangonzales.com) because we have similar views on this aspect.
I also tried to lower the color temps on Nikon image's white balance to 4800K (from 5100K). It went close to Canon's colors, which is good for me but now I see green casts on some parts. Maybe that's why it has a +10 WB TINT (added Magenta color to compensate the green) by default when loaded in Lightroom. Also, BLUE, RED and VIOLET are still too saturated.
Keep posted for our next comparison topics:
Controls and
High ISO Color Test
Comparative Analysis by:
Lito C. Inso
Forever Amateur/Newbie Photo Enthusiast
www.litoinso.com
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