The Technical Side of Filmmaking...

[MrBiddle]

---

In the meantime, get yourself a High Definition 16:9 24P camera, if you follow this route. (note: This system will revamp you usual DV set-up. But Matrox has a downloadable upgrade tools for its RT100.A Extreme capture system.) And start making movies!

Bitaw, sowaya nya nang Sony HDR-FX1. Barato ra man na. Mas barato pa tingali kaysa XL-2. onya choy pa gyud tan-awon kai itom. pero dili graphite black preho sa AGDVX100A. (at least one area of that cam was graphite)

[Blongkoy]

. . .
"what do 16-year-old female Catholic in Sta. Cruz Mission prefer to watch?"
. . .

Would you share with us the answer to this question?
Just curious.

void.main,

I can only share this study or portions of this study on a face-to-face basis. I cannot share them in a faceless and open media like the Internet. This study cost me/my company an arm and a leg and three years of otherwise relaxed mood.

But to give you an idea --- they would want to watch something about "frogs" and "water" --- 2 elements usually found in their tinalak weaving.

Frankly, the importance of this study to the business of The Little Company restrains me from going further.

There.

[MrBiddle]

But to give you an idea --- they would want to watch something about "frogs" and "water" --- 2 elements usually found in their tinalak weaving.

Ay sos! Ka-uyon di-ay sila atong WATERDANCE ni Jon Joust.

hahaha.

[Blongkoy]

There is a thread somewhere by nonubone asking for help in documentary filmmaking; MrBiddle volunteered my name for more information. It being technical, I chose to offer my two cents' worth on this matter here:

1. Get your concept clear. What is that you want to document? If it is about "child labor", for example, what is that in "child labor" you want to depict. You cannot cover everything in "child labor".

2. Have your shot list. Verify if it is doable. Change it where necessary. Verify again by walking through your possible locations. Firm up that shot list but be open to another round of changes.

3. Get out and shoot. I assume you have all the necessary equipment to do it. And get your interviews.

4. When you think you have enough footage to cover your story, get your scriptwriter on board. And let him ogle at every possible frame necessary to get your story visualized.

5. In the meantime, transcribe all interviews on paper. And edit them on paper as your guide to your edit of these interviews on an editing bay.

6. Prepare for a re-shoot for tie-up and other required footage.

7. Review the script as written. Effect changes if necessary. Record.

8. Start your post: [a] edit, [b] track-in and sync your voicing, [c] color-correct, [d] title and sub-title, [e] bring-in your music and mix, [f] work on your ambient SOF sound, [g] clean-up.

9. Get your test audience for criticism. Re-work --- even from the beginning --- if you are not communicating.

10. Then print.

The above is only for video. Films/celluloid have almost similar protocol but they radically differ in some ways.

There.

[exudos]

QUOTE:

WE must revive the CEBU FILM INDUSTRY!!!

-_-;

hala go! pag revive mo, huwat lang ko sa starbucks....

_________________________________________________

heheh@ Vance

[angryliar]

Hi guys,

It's been a while since I last posted here. Was busy making a living for the past months.

I thought of starting this thread coz after reviewing the Technical Side of Filmmaking thread I realized that there was too much ego, anger, and showing off involved.

I hope we avoid it in this thread and learn from each other.

Best regards...

angryliar

[angryliar]

A tool that needs to be utilized by newbies (if they haven't ) is the POLARIZER.

A Polarizer is a filter placed in front of the lens that helps minimize reflection from your subject (specially the specular ones).

It is a common filter used by photographers to help enhance color saturation, minimize glare from subjects like water and glass, also,Â* make the sky a little darker.

It has two types, linear and circular. For videography, the circular polarizer is commonly used as it doesn't confuse the autofocus system of your camera.

It also cuts down some of the light so it helps accomplish the narrow depth of field as you need to open up your iris (which is one of the keys to narrowing your depth of field).Â*

Experiment with this filter and you'll be amazed on what it can do to your footage.

Hope this helps.

Best regards,

angryliar

Â* Â*

[MrBiddle]

DV is best shot "long"... meaning back the camera up a bit and zoom it in. As shooting wide is a dead giveaway specially if one wants to go for a simulated celluloid feel. Back it up, telephoto in.

- From Nancy Schriber D.P. of November (starring Courtney Cox) shot on DVX100Advanced.

[angryliar]

Maybe I need to qualify my statement on the polarizer's effect on depth of field.

I don't mean to be offensive but I will throw in some issues based on my experience with the DVX100A and help clarify N. SCHREIBER's statement.

To qoute part of another interview: "Shooting almost wide open, on the long end of the lens for very little depth of field helps the illusion that it is film."

So what she was trying to achieve was the "narrow depth of field" look.

This is one of the things film is known for. When shooting video this can be accomplished under these conditions:

Â* Â*- Using the LONGER side of the lens (telephoto)
Â* Â*- Using the WIDEST iris (full open if possible)

Some technical explanations:
Â* Â* When using telephoto the angle of view is minimized thus the gap between closest focused point to the last focused point on the subject side gets narrower.
Â* Â* When using wider iris the effective area for light entry is increased thus the closest and last point of focus on the camera side gets narrower.

To explain why a polarizer can provide some help in achieving the narrow depth of field:Â* Â*
Â* Â* In situations where the light level is a bit high than when we have our iris full open, we need to put on some ND (neutral density) filter infront of our lens to bring down the light level so we can open up the camera's iris.
Â* Â* Since using a polarizer can cut down some light when placed in front of the lens, it behaves like a neutral density filter.

Btw, a neutral density (ND) filter is like a car tint or a sunglass. It brings down the light level without affecting color. Most 3CCD camera's has a built in ND filter in 2 grades. However, some situations still call for an external ND filter when the light level exceeds the full open exposure even when the darker ND filter is already on.Â* Â*

Hope this clarifies my previous post.

Best regards,

angryliar

[vanceloma]

Oh noe! not again!