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  1. #411

    Quote Originally Posted by ccc111 View Post
    Ii think my alt is 130amps so all i'll have to do is upgrade to the big 3. I'm still trying to find an alternative for the 0/1 gauge wires though. 300/foot is just too much. I'm thinking of checking out 0 gauge welding cables. a lot of car audio guys use this as an alternative. I have to check on the prices, only down side about it is that it's not as flexible.
    oh yes, i forgot expeditions have high output alternators my apologies but with regards to wires as long as you can afford it why not go for it coz if you buy your alternative choice tendency is that youll regret it in the future and youll be buying your first choice again. congratulations on your new elemental designs equipment and happy diy work!!!

  2. #412
    Quote Originally Posted by crybaby_p View Post
    unsa pasabot sa daisy chain?

    regarding sa multicab bah, ganahan ko nga ang menor niya kay normal lng...but as what i have understood to compensate sa drain sa power, i need to supply large amont of current gkan sa alternator...naa bah available nga alternator nga mosakar sa multicab nga scrum without much modification sa iyahang setting...
    you daisy chain when you "tap" into your power/ground lines,
    as in the ff. diagram:

    batt (+) -----+-------+------+---
    | | |
    HU amp1 amp2
    | | |
    ground ------+-------+------+----

    instead of dedicated connections to the power/ground source, as in

    +-------- HU -----------+
    | |
    batt(+) ------- amp1 ------ ground (ground at same point in vehicle's chassis)
    | |
    +-------- amp2 ---------+


    naa'y alt na up to 140A (don't know at what rpm though)... you can add this alt to your multicab and get all your power from it. you will need to have a bracket fabricated kay most vehicle engines are designed for only 1 alternator... be warned that the additional alt will present itself as an additional load to your engine.

  3. #413
    Quote Originally Posted by ccc111 View Post
    Blade, need to ask you a question. I'll be getting my gear in this week and I got a couple wiring questions to ask.

    My d class amp is rated at 12.5v; 1,200 watts @ 1ohm
    My 4 channel amp is rated at 12.5v; 65 watts/channel @ 4ohms

    My question is, would I have to run 0/1 ga. wires for this set up? I will be doing the big 3 in 0/1 gauge wires but since they run about 300/foot here, I just want to know what my options are. Hope you can help bro.
    are your amps' power supplies regulated or unregulated?
    if regulated, then power output is same for a particular range of input power (meaning, above values are ok). if unregulated, this means if the amp gets more than 12.5v, its output power will also increase (by how much, it depends on the amp). if needed, assume 14.4v power input on the amps.

    to make things easier, i will omit efficiency in calculations...

    (a) power = voltage x current
    (b) current = power/voltage

    1. using (b) above, determine how much current is needed by your system (all powered components) assuming voltage is 12.5v.

    2. to the total amperes you get in (1), add 20% as a safety precaution so you don't max out your wires' current-carrying capacity.

    3. check what gauge is capable of carrying the amount of current you got in (2). make sure you consider also the cable length as it will have an effect (higher gauge for longer cable runs, lower gauge for shorter runs).

    don't skimp on your power cables. you will only get rated power if enough of it reaches the amps c",)

    ** don't complain about high gas prices if you bought a lamborghini in the first place **

  4. #414
    Quote Originally Posted by blade4638 View Post
    are your amps' power supplies regulated or unregulated?
    if regulated, then power output is same for a particular range of input power (meaning, above values are ok). if unregulated, this means if the amp gets more than 12.5v, its output power will also increase (by how much, it depends on the amp). if needed, assume 14.4v power input on the amps.

    to make things easier, i will omit efficiency in calculations...

    (a) power = voltage x current
    (b) current = power/voltage

    1. using (b) above, determine how much current is needed by your system (all powered components) assuming voltage is 12.5v.

    2. to the total amperes you get in (1), add 20% as a safety precaution so you don't max out your wires' current-carrying capacity.

    3. check what gauge is capable of carrying the amount of current you got in (2). make sure you consider also the cable length as it will have an effect (higher gauge for longer cable runs, lower gauge for shorter runs).

    don't skimp on your power cables. you will only get rated power if enough of it reaches the amps c",)

    ** don't complain about high gas prices if you bought a lamborghini in the first place **
    the amps are unregulated power so they are under rated amps. I'm using Elemental designs. And I was afraid you were going to say that. lol My runs are going to be pretty long (huge SUV) so it looks like I have no choice but to go with 0/1 AWG wires. Thanks for the confirmation.

  5. #415
    Quote Originally Posted by ccc111 View Post
    the amps are unregulated power so they are under rated amps. I'm using Elemental designs. And I was afraid you were going to say that. lol My runs are going to be pretty long (huge SUV) so it looks like I have no choice but to go with 0/1 AWG wires. Thanks for the confirmation.
    looks like your badass amps will be able to give you more power if your alt can maintain 14.xx volts. you might also want to add a couple of batteries and while you're at it, some stiffening caps as well. you'll be able to play louder with higher, s-t-a-b-l-e voltages.

    about wire brands, i recall seeing mass engineering brand sa tri-j (i bought my seps there)
    sa 300/foot i guess that's already cheap. cfg banilad sold 0/1ga wire at ~550/foot before (now they're selling 4ga at a ridiculous 400/ft) that's why i settled for 2ga wire at 85/ft. mas lisod i-bend ang 0/1ga and i've read some people actually route it under the vehicle's chassis (with the cable wrapped in (plastic?) wire looms) and entering the cabin at some point.

    good luck sa install bro c",)

  6. #416
    Thanks blade. Actually i did do the computations and it could be done with 2ga wires but i would have to do 2 separate runs. I'm still thinking about it. Now, i have to save a little for wires if my L5 doesn't sell quickly. lol

    we should meet up sometime at old school. I'd like to hear those 15" L7's that you just bought slam.

    I did hear of a lot of guys especially in the ICIX forum (elemental designs) using 0/1AWG welding cables instead of car audio wires. They are pretty cheap here but they aren't that flexible. just some food for thought..

  7. #417
    Quote Originally Posted by ccc111 View Post
    Thanks blade. Actually i did do the computations and it could be done with 2ga wires but i would have to do 2 separate runs. I'm still thinking about it. Now, i have to save a little for wires if my L5 doesn't sell quickly. lol

    we should meet up sometime at old school. I'd like to hear those 15" L7's that you just bought slam.

    I did hear of a lot of guys especially in the ICIX forum (elemental designs) using 0/1AWG welding cables instead of car audio wires. They are pretty cheap here but they aren't that flexible. just some food for thought..
    just make sure when you buy your 2ga cable, the conductor is 2ga not the conductor + the insulator c",)
    the cheaper ones i got seem a little thinner than most 2ga wire i see =(

    i'm still making the boxes (6 cu ft ported, tuned to 30Hz) for my recent acquisitions. i can only work on it during weekends coz i have a full-time job... and we are expecting a baby girl in a few days...

    looking forward to meeting you and the other car audio fans here.

    your idea of using welding cable is great esp if one can save a lot to buy other things instead. i'd surely like to see a setup using those welding cables...

  8. #418
    Quote Originally Posted by blade4638 View Post
    just make sure when you buy your 2ga cable, the conductor is 2ga not the conductor + the insulator c",)
    the cheaper ones i got seem a little thinner than most 2ga wire i see =(

    i'm still making the boxes (6 cu ft ported, tuned to 30Hz) for my recent acquisitions. i can only work on it during weekends coz i have a full-time job... and we are expecting a baby girl in a few days...

    looking forward to meeting you and the other car audio fans here.

    your idea of using welding cable is great esp if one can save a lot to buy other things instead. i'd surely like to see a setup using those welding cables...
    Congrats on the baby girl that you'll be expecting. I have two girls myself. hehehe

    I can only do my work on my stuff on the weekends as well. Got all my gear in today. Really happy about that but it's going to take a good 2 weeks before it's all in. I still have to finish my box and false floor. Hopefully, I'll have the builds done over the weekend then do the install the following weekend. That's if everything goes as planned.

    My box is a smaller than yours, i'm at about 4 cu. ft. tuned to 35hz. I'm hoping my eD 13Ov.2's will really pound. I'm still thinking about the welding cables, I guess it's worth a try to see how they would work. I called up the hardware store and they are only a little over 100 per meter. that's real cheap so i may try and if it doesn't work then i'll go with the 300/ft stuff.

  9. #419
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    up all my gears have arrived except for my midbass and epicenter

  10. #420
    Quote Originally Posted by krsuan View Post
    up all my gears have arrived except for my midbass and epicenter
    are you going to let up know what you bought kim? My eD gear just got in today too. I don't think i'll be able to sleep now. hahaha

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