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  1. #61

    ayay murag 5+ ghz naman ang target ani dah
    naka abot na man ta ug 4.5ghz on air ana nga procie. hehehe

    Just my thoughts, radiator design is not very good, (intake should always be on top
    and output at the bottom, not on the same end for gravity and water head reasons and less load on the water pump) this rad is a design for sideways mounting. Although distilled water will give you less chances of calcium carbonate depositing in the system(not 100% free). Coolant will add a little more specific gravity(1.0 for water) to the medium and with more mass the more you get better temp transference. Not too much though as it will restrict flow in the radiator.

    Imo na jud gi standard atong cable management da, hehe. I still would like to see the sideways mount sa HDs para di jud makita ang cable but then it doesn't work sa dvd rom. Also the 24 pin cable should be at the back like we talked about. Wala ka mo suway ad2 akong luminescent green na hosing para sa casing or Fan Control wires para usa lang ka hose instead of the multiple hose you are using.Try to find 90 degree bent sata wires para mas limpyo.

    Since imo na man jud na gi dremel ang case, why not get a slim type DVD rom and laptop sata drives and cut the drive bays to half of what it is now and that's where you put your water pump sideways towards the left case cover. Imong HD can then be mounted on the right side case covers na so dili jud makita. Slim type DVD rom will be where your fan control is and the fan control where your HD is now. Dili man mo siwil so ma pasok nimo ang water pump. I'm not too keen on your water pump placement between the power supply and radiator. Nindot if more inconspicous. Put tint on the water reservoir para dili kaayo ma klaro. You can also put ducting to direct half of the lower fan output direct to the power supply and at the same time directing the rest towards mobo, cpu, vgu etc.

    FINALLY, since you're thinking paint, put 1/4" fiberglass mesh underneath where the motherboard would be, paste it to the metal and paint the whole inside of the casing(fiberglass included) with course
    vinyl paint(usually black).Allyour black wires will disappear to the background while the rest will stand out. This would also enhance any leds you have going while the fiberglass will ensure less vibration sa mobo and ensure insulation sa mobo back.

    Can't wait to see this rig!!!!

  2. #62
    ..wow.. ...again > ...wow...
    nus-a pa kaha ko kain-ani?!??

  3. #63
    OT: comment lang ko ha, ayaw kuno ninyo palabii ug panindot beh kay mosamot akong kasuya.

  4. #64
    Quote Originally Posted by joel oporto View Post
    ayay murag 5+ ghz naman ang target ani dah
    naka abot na man ta ug 4.5ghz on air ana nga procie. hehehe

    Just my thoughts, radiator design is not very good, (intake should always be on top
    and output at the bottom, not on the same end for gravity and water head reasons and less load on the water pump) this rad is a design for sideways mounting. Although distilled water will give you less chances of calcium carbonate depositing in the system(not 100% free). Coolant will add a little more specific gravity(1.0 for water) to the medium and with more mass the more you get better temp transference. Not too much though as it will restrict flow in the radiator.

    Imo na jud gi standard atong cable management da, hehe. I still would like to see the sideways mount sa HDs para di jud makita ang cable but then it doesn't work sa dvd rom. Also the 24 pin cable should be at the back like we talked about. Wala ka mo suway ad2 akong luminescent green na hosing para sa casing or Fan Control wires para usa lang ka hose instead of the multiple hose you are using.Try to find 90 degree bent sata wires para mas limpyo.

    Since imo na man jud na gi dremel ang case, why not get a slim type DVD rom and laptop sata drives and cut the drive bays to half of what it is now and that's where you put your water pump sideways towards the left case cover. Imong HD can then be mounted on the right side case covers na so dili jud makita. Slim type DVD rom will be where your fan control is and the fan control where your HD is now. Dili man mo siwil so ma pasok nimo ang water pump. I'm not too keen on your water pump placement between the power supply and radiator. Nindot if more inconspicous. Put tint on the water reservoir para dili kaayo ma klaro. You can also put ducting to direct half of the lower fan output direct to the power supply and at the same time directing the rest towards mobo, cpu, vgu etc.

    FINALLY, since you're thinking paint, put 1/4" fiberglass mesh underneath where the motherboard would be, paste it to the metal and paint the whole inside of the casing(fiberglass included) with course
    vinyl paint(usually black).Allyour black wires will disappear to the background while the rest will stand out. This would also enhance any leds you have going while the fiberglass will ensure less vibration sa mobo and ensure insulation sa mobo back.

    Can't wait to see this rig!!!!

    poldopunk - salamat sa powder coat suggestion, will look into that. Any price estimate for a case this size? and where should i start looking?


    Joel - hehehe. I will definitley look at those recommendations, some intricate mods you talk of there so i'll have to re-read your post a few times so i can picture the ideas you gave.

    * radiator - ive seen some rads with nozzles on opposite ends, this is merley for ease of routing of the tubes in some complicated installs (mostly if rad is mounted on top of case ), i think. As far as flow through the rad, i dont think it will matter that much once all the air bubbles are gone. Remember, this will be a closed loop, so once water is flowing through the system, and bubbles bled out, orientation of the rad mounting should'nt be a factor.
    * right angle sata cables - i think i have a few
    * slim dvd rom - can upgrade to that later
    * mounting of pump in drivebay - i think that i will not have enough space there because the pump/reservoir combo is quite big. I will post pics of it in the case where i plan on mounting it. Also, Swiftech recommends the pump to be installed at the bottom most part in the case so that was my first option.

    As for the rest, well, will look into all that. I'm just so eager to test the system out first, just waiting for the CPU blocks to arrive. Single cpu loop for now with an option to include a gpu block aswell later on. Ofcourse an additional rad will be needed i'm sure. But first things first - 1 single cpu loop for now.

  5. #65
    Junior Member i-7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by glide 1 View Post
    Thanks for the kind words and suggestions. I'm seriously thinking of cutting out the holes for the 24pin, we'll see. What kind of paint do you recommend me using? I've tried Plylox type spray can paint before but results were mediocre and paint is prone to scratches. Can anyone suggest a good quality paint for this?

    omniknight - thanks.
    Pylox will be ok but you need to do the whole process.. sand to bare metal, pylox anti rust primer, pylox color, and pylox clear. I have done it and its very time consuming kay kinahanglan gyud nimo i pa cure ug maayo and it will take 2 to 3 weeks for best result.

    Powder coat is a good option, ang problem lang kay lisod mangita ug powder coater but mura naa sa consolacion. Wa ko kasuway, so I can't comment more.

    Last option would be automotive paint. Kung makakita ka ug autoshop na di lang kaayo mahal ug pangayo, pwede nimo na ipa paint nila. Kung less than 1k for flat black painting for the inside of the case only, ok na kaayo.

  6. #66
    Powdercoating is the best, i had my lianli PC80 powdercoated alraady, nag huwat nalang kuhaon

  7. #67
    Quote Originally Posted by EarlZ View Post
    Powdercoating is the best, i had my lianli PC80 powdercoated alraady, nag huwat nalang kuhaon
    how much did that cost you?

  8. #68
    Quote Originally Posted by i-7 View Post
    Pylox will be ok but you need to do the whole process.. sand to bare metal, pylox anti rust primer, pylox color, and pylox clear. I have done it and its very time consuming kay kinahanglan gyud nimo i pa cure ug maayo and it will take 2 to 3 weeks for best result.

    Powder coat is a good option, ang problem lang kay lisod mangita ug powder coater but mura naa sa consolacion. Wa ko kasuway, so I can't comment more.

    Last option would be automotive paint. Kung makakita ka ug autoshop na di lang kaayo mahal ug pangayo, pwede nimo na ipa paint nila. Kung less than 1k for flat black painting for the inside of the case only, ok na kaayo.

    I know of a place in mandaue somewhere who does powder coating. Have'nt been there to inquire though.

    Problem i hear about powdercoating is that sometimes they lay it on quite thick and fitting drives into the 5.25" bays for example, become really tight and you end up scratching the coat eventually. Is this true?

  9. #69
    Quote Originally Posted by glide 1 View Post
    here's the # of the owner himself, his name is Matt. 09175498832

    OT: Thanks sir, ehehe..kuiawa sad ani oi owner man jud txtan...Moadto nalang ko, I know where they moved man, sa echavez ra, kanang naa mga auto shops. hehe

  10. #70
    Quote Originally Posted by babolgam View Post
    Thanks sir, ehehe..kuiawa sad ani oi owner man jud txtan...Moadto nalang ko, I know where they moved man, sa echavez ra, kanang naa mga auto shops. hehe

    yup e chavez, mao na cya. Good luck.

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