ASIAN BETTA ALLIANCE - Cebu Chapter

[pulchra]

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pwede ra sa barel na dako? wala nay water change? ok ra iti sa ok-ok? (B. Dubia roches?) cge salamt kau mag betta nko f sucesful ang daphnia culture!!!

[The Good$!!!]

Roy, naay taga Car2x kato ingon nko nimo vah, k2 nhan mu buy sako fries, bsin magpa member to sa ABA, ky interesado kau. From FH keeping to Betta keeping, convert na xa bei. Naa xa ask sa mga strain sa betta daw, ky d pa xa suweto.

Istoryan na cya? Pa post lang cya dri o pa texc ko kung unsa man gani...

@ Pulchra

Pwde ra nang tunga sa barel... Suwaye lang... Pwde pud asukar ug yeast imu gamiton unya butange lang aerator...

[pulchra]

ok yeast/sugar ok kau salamat bai!

-----mordartz---

[The Good$!!!]

Importance of Talisay Extract in Bettas:

Ketapang Leaves;

Most of the tropical fishes that lives in the rivers and lakes, their natural and best environment is Black Water. Black water have a distinctive brownish tea like colour and contain many dissolved organic materials.

It was first noticed that fishes living around the water where the ketapang trees grew are found much more vibrant, beautiful and healthy. Thus started the practice of putting in ketapang leaves into aquariums to try and achieve the same condition as those found in their natural environment.

The ketapang tree is a big 'pagoda-shaped' tree with distinctly tiered branching. The origin of the tree is in Malaya. A noted pecularity of this species is the tendency for its leaves to turn bright red and fall - a rarity in the tropics where most trees remain evergreen throughout the year. The bark, fruit and leaves of the tree have traditionally been used to treat various ailments ranging from skin disease, dysentery, headaches and colic in children. Research has identified properties which could be used in treating hypertension.

Ketapang (TERMINALIA CATAPPA, or commonly called tropical almond, badamier, Java almond, amandier de Cayenne, wild almond, Indian almond, myrobalan, Malabar almond, Singapore almond, Huu kwang, Sea almond, kobateishi) tree is known to produce a poison in its leaves and sap to defend against insect parasites. When the dried leaves falls into the river, a strong brown dye is given off. The dye is full of organic acids like humic and tannins.

So the dried Ketapang leaves actually release organic acids like humic and tannins which lowers the pH of the water, absorbs harmful chemicals and help create a soothing and calm environment for the fish.

What is Humic Acid? Is it a mixture of several organic acids? Humic acids are a complex mixture of partially 'decomposed' and otherwise transformed organic materials. The freshwater humic acids can come from a variety of sources, most of which are on land (decomposing terrestrial vegetation.) These substances wash into lakes and rivers, undergoing further transformations along the way, and ultimately into the ocean.

Humic acid contains Sulfur, Nitrogen and Phosphorus in varying amounts. It also contains metals such as Ca, Mg, Cu, Zn etc. which can be 'chelated' in some undefined way. Humic acid can be broken down into two groups based on the polarity and size of the individual 'compounds'.

The smaller, more polar fraction is generally termed fulvic acid and the larger, more non-polar fraction is generally termed humic acid. Humic acids are the end product of microbial degradation of plant and animal debris and are one of the most important constituents of fertile soils.

Tannins, lignins and fulvic acids are sub classes of humic acids. They all tint the water yellow.

Tannic and humic acids may be useful for inhibiting many types of bacteria including cyano-bacteria and are fairly benign for your fish.

Another paradoxical effect of humic acids is the detoxification of heavy metals. Humic material and detritus in the aquarium also rapidly absorb and detoxify many chemicals including zinc, aluminum and copper! One might expect them to be made more, not less toxic by humic acids, but the studies seem to indicate a detoxifying effect.

Also important to know: The harder the water the more ineffective the humic acids - - - more exactly: the dissolved lime in the water produces undissolvable calcium humates. So, the higher the water hardness, the higher must be the supply of humates in order to achieve an acidifying effect. The softer the water, the less humates are needed and the better the effect.

Peat is a rich source of humic acids, as are decaying driftwood. So in some countries, peat is used instead of ketapang leaves.

[joshua_loquias]

@ the Goods

yep, Istoryans na xa, waman pd xa sulti gd, unsa ya username dwe. Mo txt pa xa, Ako na xa ingnan mo thread dwe, bsin mu post rato dwe.

Mayta kaduaw ka mga fries dwe oist, para kita ka unsa nani...feel nko bei, nay pang show dwe..he.he..libog jd ko pag *** ani da, tupong2x pa jd ila finnage.

[The Good$!!!]

For the First time Breeders, this article would be very useful indeed... Read on...

Power Growing Your Fry
By: BettySplendens
Submitted: 8/25/2006


"How do you get your fry to grow so quickly?"

Most experienced breeders are inevitably asked this question, so for this new feature of Bettysplendens.com I'd like to address how to get the fastest growth from your betta fry.

We've all been there at some point. We've read the Aquabid listings or seen bettas on the websites of some high profile breeders claiming that their fully-developed beauties are only 2 or 3 months old, and then looked with exasperation at our own 4 month old tadpoles and wondered what we were doing wrong. The advantages to growing out your bettas quickly is, of course, that you can achieve your breeding goals much faster by being able to perform another filial spawning every 3-4 months than you would by doing it every 7-8 months. Since most of us were attracted to breeding bettas, in particular, because of the almost limitless color/pattern combinations possible with them, moving on to subsequent generations as quickly as possible is in our best interests.

However, you might be among those breeders for whom raising bettas is such a relaxing pastime that you do not mind bringing them along more slowly. In that case, the following may be useful for you if you are interested in showing or selling your fish, and want to get as much growth out of them as possible in a limited amount of time.


Water

This is the one I feel is the most paramount in importance - water quality. Most new breeders do not change the water nearly as often as they should to maximize fry growth. A common reason for this is that many conscientious breeders only feel it is necessary to change the water once or twice a week, enough to maintain healthy ammonia and nitrate/nitrite levels in the growout tank. While this is commendable and goes a long way towards making sure your betta fry remain healthy, twice a week water changes are not sufficient for coaxing the best growth out of your fry.

The explanations for this are far from simple. Scientific studies have proven that most fish, including bettas, excrete a hormone that acts as an inhibitor to growth. In the betta community it has widely been said that this growth hormone stifles the potential of smaller fish in the spawn, giving the advantage to the larger, healthier fry. While this goes a long way to explaining the sometimes dramatic size differences between fry from the same spawn, it is my personal belief based on what I have read that this hormone actually works to limit the growth of the fish so that it does not outgrow its environment. In nature this would be a handy tool, ensuring that there is enough space and resources for all. In the spawn tank, it's just inconvenient. A couple of hundred young fish in a ten gallon tank will soon produce enough hormone to severely limit growth unless the water is changed, and changed often. I change the water in my growout tanks at least 50% every single day. Other successful breeders have reported changing as much as 80-100% per day, with excellent results.

Water changes should begin by about 2 weeks old. If you have started with a half-full tank for the spawn, then by two weeks old you can start adding water, a gallon at a time, every day until the tank is full. This should take 4-7 days, and after that time the fry are usually large enough to make siphoning easier. Simply remove the detritus from the bottom of the tank with a very small airline tubing siphon (I attach a long piece of tubing to a straw so that I can maneuver better) and carefully vacuum the bottom of the tank. When it is clean enough, you can remove the remaining 50% of the water from the top with a clear cup so the job will go a bit faster, and you can see if you've accidentally scooped up any fry. When half of the water has been removed, simply refill the tank with clean, aged/treated water. I wouldn't recommend more than a 50-70% water change per day. While the fish will grow faster removing ALL hormone from the water, I've found that full water changes at this tender age can stress the fry.

Once the fry have been individually jarred, you can continue to expedite growth by giving them 100% water changes every day.


Feeding

Although I always recommend feeding the best food you can to your bettas, I've found that food itself is secondary to water quality. I have raised bettas to show size in 4 months on nothing but pellets and massive water changes. Live and frozen foods aren't critical for fast growth, but they DO improve the health and overall condition of your fish, which contributes to better size - so use them when you can.
An interesting method of power growing betta fry was told by fellow IBC breeder Rob Panerio, who says he can get a young betta to show size in 8-12 weeks using this technique. He combines massive water changes with gut-stuffing the fry with large quantities of high-protein live food. The choice of food corresponds with the current size of the fish; he offers the largest food that a fry can successfully fit into its mouth. They are fed several times a day, as much as they can handle. One might consider this method extreme, since he reports several losses of fry from overfeeding. However, it obviously produces results! As mentioned, he also performs large volume water changes in his fry tanks, a powerful one-two punch that produces large, showy, full sized bettas in a fraction of the time.


I realize that massive daily water changes can take a lot of time, especially when you have more than one growout tank to change. This can be difficult to accomplish, especially as most of us also have to juggle work, families and other non fish related activities. However, if you are having trouble growing your fish, I simply ask that you try it - just once! - just to see what happens. I am confident you will be pleased with the results. In addition to encouraging better growth, frequent water changes and good food also produce better looking specimens once they reach maturity. So roll up your sleeves and go play in the water! I think you'll discover it is worth it.

[eric_the_red]

[eric_the_red]

[eric_the_red]

[eric_the_red]

eto na yung request mong pic sir roy,pasensya na kung natagalan ko ipost.yan lang muna kasi yung iba malikot,ang hirap kuhanan,tapos yung iba camera shy.hehehe