OVATION LCD: comments pls...

[ncmknight]

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I got one Ovation 19", and it's pretty good; colors are more vivid than my AOC 19". It's quite cheap too, considering that it's not widescreen.

Just one hitch. It has a white dot (dead pixel) at the center of the screen. It's not annoying anyway, but I get to notice it when the webpage background is black or dark.

Also, I used to sell these Ovation 17" and 19" to friends, but stopped because of the same reason: almost all units have white dots /deal pixel. I thought I was just unlucky, but one time when I returned one unit, another customer also returned about 11 units, because out of 15 he bought, only 4 were without these dots.

That was May 2008, and might have been a batch defect. I dunno if this defect has been addressed with new stocks.

If it doesn't annoy you much, the product is well worth the price. I love it more than my AOC 19".

[usrolla]

I got one Ovation 19", and it's pretty good; colors are more vivid than my AOC 19". It's quite cheap too, considering that it's not widescreen.

Just one hitch. It has a white dot (dead pixel) at the center of the screen. It's not annoying anyway, but I get to notice it when the webpage background is black or dark.

Also, I used to sell these Ovation 17" and 19" to friends, but stopped because of the same reason: almost all units have white dots /deal pixel. I thought I was just unlucky, but one time when I returned one unit, another customer also returned about 11 units, because out of 15 he bought, only 4 were without these dots.

That was May 2008, and might have been a batch defect. I dunno if this defect has been addressed with new stocks.

If it doesn't annoy you much, the product is well worth the price. I love it more than my AOC 19".

thanks for sharing bro.... it informative... somehow bro OK man ang AOC 19" nko but still not contented and wana go for 22" or kng naa affordable nga 24" pero so far 22" pinaka daku sa ovation..... ky naa to gi recommend sa jungie (from istorya) nga naa sya coming nga 22" viewsonic much better with almost the same price though LCD monitor lng sya. ky ang 22" sa ovation LCD TV naman.

@ COMCAM: so far bro mao raman ni ako na kita nga website nila Ovation International Corp. and i think dli ni updated.

[fineupgrades]

try the latest AOC LCD monitor, 22" with contrast ratio of 20,000:1 and maximum resolution of 1680 x 1050 (almost HD na) with response time of 2ms. we tried that one during the launching of new AOC LCD monitors at casino español last august. it's very nice. try contact MDR lang cause i forgot the model.

[usrolla]

try the latest AOC LCD monitor, 22" with contrast ratio of 20,000:1 and maximum resolution of 1680 x 1050 (almost HD na) with response time of 2ms. we tried that one during the launching of new AOC LCD monitors at casino español last august. it's very nice. try contact MDR lang cause i forgot the model.

do they sell monitors ba or ngita ka ug dealer sa ila mga AOC products?

[fineupgrades]

i think i did not say "looking for dealers"..of course they are selling AOC products, i just recommend the product...

[usrolla]

i think i did not say "looking for dealers"..of course they are selling AOC products, i just recommend the product...

hehehe... what i mean is ang buyer mangita pa ba ug dealer nila sa AOC product sir.... na kuwangan ug type . ky daghan man gud ingon nga ang MDR dli cla mismo daw ang mo baligya kng individual lng. it must be a dealership daw like TTI, pcexpress and etc.

[fineupgrades]

well maybe, kay sila man ang distro sa AOC diri. basin i refer pod sa ilang resellers. but regarding sa latest AOC monitor i mentioned, it's very good.

[COMCAM]

MDR doesn't sell retail, wholeseller ni sila

[usrolla]

well maybe, kay sila man ang distro sa AOC diri. basin i refer pod sa ilang resellers. but regarding sa latest AOC monitor i mentioned, it's very good.

yeah base from my 1st hand experience OK jud ang AOC... mka attract lng ang price sa ovation but though not sure sa quality and performance kng OK ba.

@COMCAM: yeah mao pod ako na hibaw-an... ky kadto ako gi palitan ani akng 19" cla mismo ni ingon nga dli daw mka diretso sa MDR...

[dmelsie]

@usrolla/comcam
naa ko nakit an about mga lcd some infos og unsaon pagpili
pero overall its up to you na gihapon

Vendors want to sell you stuff! There, it's finally been said. Don't believe me? Well, you wouldn't be the first, but thankfully, I have evidence.

Within the last year I've seen a new spec, called dynamic contrast ratio (DCR), tossed around for computer displays. If you didn't know before, contrast ratio is simply the difference between the darkest blacks and the brightest whites a given display can produce.

Typically, computer displays have a contrast ratio of about 1000:1. However with DCR, you'll see numbers like 4000:1, 10,000:1, and higher. Basically, it's just a way for Company A to proclaim, "Don't buy Company B's monitor because it has a much lower DCR than our monitor." Since more and more vendors have been pushing this, I want to delve further into how they're getting these numbers.

Before a monitor is released to the public it goes through a bunch of testing in the vendor's own lab. These tests produce the specs that the vendor will then publish with the release. Specs like maximum brightness, pixel pitch, pixel response time, contrast ratio, and dynamic contrast ratio are all determined in the vendor's own lab.

When testing normal contrast ratio, vendors use a device that measures light to determine how much light is emanating from a display while it's showing both a completely black and a completely white screen. They then take each number, do a bit of math, and come up with the contrast ratio.

Now, aside from a relatively low number of LCDs that use newer LED backlighting technology, all LCDs have a lamp built in to their screens. When you turn your brightness setting down, you're actually just dimming the lamp in the back. When the vendors dim the backlight to get the contrast ratio score, they dim it to a point, but do not turn it off. When they test to get the readings for DCR, however, they turn on the DCR feature and put up a black screen. When the video signal is black or near black, this triggers the backlight to go into standby mode.

Once this is triggered, the darkness of the black level increases by a factor of 10 or more. At this point the vendor takes its reading for the dark screen and compares it with the white screen reading it got before. Since this new dark screen level is so dark, it increases the contrast ratio. The problem is that the screen only gets this dark when the video signal is black or near black--not very useful when you're watching a movie, or playing a game, or doing pretty much anything. The primary reason for including this feature is that the contrast ratio goes from 1000:1 to 10,000:1, and even 20,000:1 for computer displays and even higher for televisions.

When vendors push DCR as a spec for LCDs that use LED backlighting technology, however, it may be more appropriate. Direct contrast ratio works differently here than with lamp-based LCDs. When a portion of an image in a movie is relatively dark, the LEDs in that local area of the screen are dimmed. This occurs on a frame-by-frame basis and lowers the black level in that dark area only. Unfortunately, this implementation has its weaknesses, as well, as there can be some noticeable visual glitches in the areas that darken.

So, after the testing is done, the vendor publishes its super-high number, and Joe Consumer (not you, of course, loyal reader, but someone else) goes into the local Best Buy, looking to get a new monitor for his 5-year-old Compaq desktop that was handed down to him by his younger, more tech-savvy brother. He looks at the specs and sees that monitor A has a 10,000:1 DCR, while monitor B has a contrast ratio of 1000:1. Well, bigger numbers mean better, right? So, he goes for the display with DCR. And that's fine if A does everything else you want it to do.

If a display looks good with the type of content you plan to use on it, has the connections you want, is the right size and price, then by all means get it. Don't get it, however, just because of some spec that means jack when you're actually using the display (or has not been implemented well enough for the glitches not to distract, as is the case with LED-based DCR).
credit:Eric Franklin/CNET Networks

another info ako nakit an sa lain forum
This "dynamic contrast ratio" scam is similar to the old techniques of quoting max luminance with the brightness control turned all the way up and the minimum with the device practically off. ANSI luminance and contrast values should obviate this nonsense.
IF the LED backlight arrangement uses multiple LEDs for different areas of the display and IF the software can take account of the image content, THEN the contrast can indeed be improved, but there is, of course, considerable additional cost involved.
Contrast in general is a function of the ambient light. If there's a lot of light impinging on the screen, the minimum luminance is increased and the contrast reduced. Somehow, vendors never talk about this. I have tried to introduce the term "intrinsic contrast" to describe the display contrast ratio in the total absence of ambient light, but this locution has never caught on.

and kini medyo old na article sa anandtech (4 years old na hehehe) pero mo apply gihapon mani siya today siguro

How to Pick a Good LCD
Picking an LCD goes well beyond brand recognition. Below, we have a small introduction to a few different facets of shopping for an LCD - in our order of importance. Generally, we find a price point and then choose an LCD based on the properties detailed below. For example, if we only have $500 to spend, we consider all of the monitors for $500 or less and go through the following checklist.

Input Type: DVI, DVI, DVI. We insist that when you buy a new LCD monitor, you buy a model with DVI capability. Even if you don't want to buy a DVI-capable video card right now, it is still a wise decision to get a DVI-compatible LCD. When DVI first appeared in the industry, there were a few issues with the quality of the connectors and thus, sometimes viewing a signal over a DVI connector would give you a worse signal than over a 15-pin D-Sub connector. However, in the last 3 or 4 years, most of those problems have been fixed, and virtually every new video card is more than capable of producing a clean digital signal. None of the LCDs that we review today (except the Samsung 910V) are limited to only analog connectors, but be aware that they exist.

Resolution, Aspect Ratio: If you buy a 4:3 LCD, the resolution had better be 4:3 as well. That is, a 19" LCD should have an aspect ratio of 1600x1200, 1280x960, or some derivative thereof. Most 19" and 17" LCDs have an aspect ratio of 5:4 (1280x1024). This is OK, but you're looking at a 5:4 signal crammed in a 4:3 box. Our Dell 2001FP, on the other hand, measures exactly 16" by 12" and runs at a resolution of 1600x1200. Generally, a skew aspect ratio is not enough to notice, but if you do any sort of graphic work, all of your circles will look like ovals. This goes the same for widescreen LCDs - buy a widescreen LCD with a widescreen resolution; a 30" wide format LCD with a resolution of 1024x768 will not look correct no matter what you do to the signal.
additional na ang mga 16:9 or 16:10 widescreen lcds ron

Response Time: Response time is an unusual preference and always a trade off. Typical response time (TrTf - Time rising, Time falling) refers to the time that it takes the LCD subpixel to twist from the fully "on" position to the fully "off" position and then back again. Response time has absolutely nothing to do with framerate. Pixel response times are independent of each other, and it does not take the entire screen 25ms to refresh if a monitor is labeled as a 25ms response time LCD. The time that it takes the LCD to go from black to white may be 15ms while the time that it takes the LCD to go from black back to white may be 10ms. Furthermore, your monitor is generally rendering a color that is not on end of the color spectrum. The time that it takes your LCD subpixel to twist from one half of a tone to another may be more or less than 15ms. The TrTf response time is normally a pretty useless measurement - but it makes for an easy specification in which to market LCDs.

The second method in measuring response time is "gray-to-gray" (GTG) response time. The measurement of GTG response time is actually more useful to LCD buyers, but it is harder to convey and is usually just conveyed as one number (which is incorrect). Gray to Gray response time refers to the time that it takes for a pixel to twist from some arbitrary position to another. On a 6-bit LCD, that's the time it takes the subpixel to twist from 1 of 64 different positions to one of the other 63 positions. GTG response times are useful if the manufacturer expresses the average of all the GTG response times, but that is rarely the case.

Everyone's preferences on response time are different. If you play a lot of games and feel that the few ms difference between a 6-bit LCD and an 8-bit LCD are worthwhile, then it's a worthy investment. Most people can't tell the difference - and that's not just most people who aren't gamers, but most people in general have to be shown the differences between two displays that differ by single digit transient response times.

Brightness: Brightness is fortunately an easy specification to remember. More is better, particularly on LCDs with higher resolution. Even though your LCD might have six bulbs behind the substrate, a very small fraction of that light actually filters through the liquid crystal. Although, the measurement of "candela per meter squared" or "cd/m2" or "nits" all refer to the amount of light that actually passes through the front of the monitor at a 90 degree angle.

Viewing Angle: Viewing angle generally has a lot to do with the display mode of an LCD. You may wish to check out our LCD FAQ from a year ago that went through a lot of the basics of LCD design, particularly the pages on how LCD substrates work. Differing display modes utilize differing methods for twisting the LCD crystals - TN, PVA and SIPS are just a few. When LCDs were new, there were large issues with getting light to pass through the substrate at more angles than just 90 degrees head on, and for a short period of time, it was important that LCDs have some viewing angle. However, almost all LCDs today (and for the last 3 years or so) have viewing angles that are wide enough for anyone to look at the LCD from any (sane) angle. Unless you spend a lot of time looking at your monitor from 3 feet away, 60 degrees off center and at a 45 degree incline, don't worry about viewing angle so much when buying an LCD. We generally only mention viewing angle in our reviews if something seems amiss.

Contrast Ratios: Contrast measurements were originally supposed to quantify the difference between the lightest light and the darkest dark on the LCD. For example, if a black portion of the screen has a brightness of 0.5 cd/m2, and a white portion has a brightness of 250 cd/m2, then the monitor would have a contrast level of 500:1. Almost immediately, this measurement has been abused; manufacturers can take these measurements on angles to assure darker darks and brighter brights. Furthermore, other manufacturers take these measurements in different light settings and with different test pattern (some take measurements with the screen completely dark, while others take measurements with the screen in a checkerboard pattern). Unfortunately, relying on manufacturer Contrast Ratios too heavily during a purchase will probably lead you astray. To correct that, we will run a standardized test in our lab that tests contrast ratios of all of our LCDs in controlled situations.

So far, we covered only the introductory basics in shopping for an LCD. Footprint, features and rotation capabilities are all important as well, but don't be awed by monitors with features that you will never use. Paying $50 extra for MagicBright or a TV tuner only makes sense if you're going to use it.
Buying an LCD
For all the wisdom that we can give you about how to spec out a monitor correctly, all of that is worthless if the monitor doesn't fit your personality. Unlike a video card or CPU, buying a monitor is a very personal experience. People have differences on how they angle the monitor, the level of ambient lighting, and some just have different design tastes than others. If one monitor specs out better than another, but looks hideous on your desk, it probably isn't worth buying.

Aesthetics aside, there are some key pointers to follow when buying an LCD. This may just be personal preference, but we always recommend buying an LCD from a retail shop. Since LCDs are such personal items - most likely the most personal computer-related item that you can buy - looking at it, touching it and just seeing it in person is something that can't be replaced by an online experience.

Keep in mind, when you go to a Best Buy or Fry's, the LCD monitors on display are out of calibration, physically dirty and probably receive a terrible signal from some sort of modulator that has been on for 5 years. There are very few exceptions where a floor model display will look better in the store than in an office or home.

Issues like warranty and pixel defect rate used to plague LCD buyers in the past, but quality control on most well recognized branded monitors today are high enough that we rarely experience these problems anymore. The most recent issues of defective pixels are usually limited to a few models like the recent debacle with Apple's cinematic displays. Almost every retail store has policies on LCD monitors that allow you to open the monitor packaging and view the monitor in the store before you take it home, and most retailers will replace LCDs that have dead or stuck subpixels, if you haven't take it out of the store yet.