1/16 RC Tanks

[teoding]

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@ tamblot: naa ka idea tag pila ang tamiya aftermarket parts diha bai? also, if you had already acquired a henglong metal gearbox, is it possible you could post some detailed shots of it? i've been meaning in upgrading my wsn ir tanks. tia.

btw, the chinese ztz type99 mbt looks like a hybrid of the leopard 2 (turret) and the soviet's t-90/t-80 (hull).

[Tamblot]

@teoding: pm you bro.

The reference design of ZTZ99 originally came from Russia. Simply put, a custom version of Russian model.

[Tamblot]

So here is the progress of the project. This time, its the replacement of the gearbox with an enhanced version.

This is how it somehow looks like inside. A bit organized but still have some clutter of wires. Common for a factory assembly process. In this photo, I already unscrewed the receiver box and the speaker.



According to Henglong, the enhanced version have steel gears. Well, looks like it. Ang difference sa duha is that, the standard metal gearbox comes with "silvery" colored gears while the enhanced on has black. See for yourself.



I started with the replacement of the gearbox. Removal is no big deal. Remove the three Philips screws that secure the gearbox to the chassis then pull the gearbox out. When I test fit the new gearbox, I noticed that one of the guide holes (right) is a bit smaller compared sa una. This makes the seating on the chassis uneven. The solution is either trim nako ang guide post which is plastic and easier to do or I will widen the hole of the gearbox which is a bit challenging for a metallic material. So guess which one?



Not the plastic. Reducing the diameter of the plastic guide pin may weaken the post. Better to leave it as it is. A little dremel in the guide hole fixed the issue.




And both of the gearboxes fall into place as planned. Nabantayan nako that the drive shaft is not well aligned with respect to the chassis and the rest of the wheel. This may need some alignment later on but unya na inig taod na nako balik sa tracks.




Coming up next, Resetting of track wheel suspension...

[Tamblot]

After replacement of gearbox, I turned next to the resetting of the track wheel suspension. I notice that it's a bit stiff. Maybe because this is configured to run with metal tracks. Maybe. After adjustment, I expect the tank can better glide on uneven surface. We will see.

So I started with the removal of the wheel cover. Pried off the cap to access the Philips screw underneath. Please note nga usahay luag ang mga covers so better secure it with glue after servicing. Not too much, otherwise maglisod na ka tangtang sa cover next time you work on it. Just enough to keep the cover from falling off while on the field.



With the screw off, I can easily pull out the wheel and expose the wheel suspension arm. The arm is secured to the chassis with an Allen screw. I kept the arm in place while I loosen the screw. I can feel the spring resistance until the screw went off. With screw off, I can easily pop out the arm and the spring.



The spring chamber has two holes for the retaining pin of the spring. Default setting is on the left hole. This will give a stiffer suspension. During operation, the spring rotates clockwise. Setting the retaining pin to the right hole reduces the spring travel thus reducing the resistance.



Did it to other remaining wheels and done.

[ad_dur]

nindota ani wel . . . .

[teoding]

nindota ani wel . . . .

dili na ako ang post naa sa ibabaw bai.

[teoding]

@ tamblot: nice wip bai. keep it up. excited sad ko maka kita ana inig human. let's keep this "alternative" hobby alive.

[m249s]

nice work in progress naka lindot ani kay working scale model pa gyud
wala sad ko ani TAN-AW LANG KO DRI

[teoding]

nice work in progress naka lindot ani kay working scale model pa gyud
wala sad ko ani TAN-AW LANG KO DRI

palit m249s. di man kaayo mahal ni nga hobby.

[Tamblot]

Previously in Project Red Spear...

Gearbox Replacement
Wheel Suspension Resetting


This time, I would like to spare myself from the burden of flipping the unit up side down everytime I power it on or switch the smoke machine. So the plan here is to transfer all of the switches from the bottom of the chassis to somewhere that can conveniently be accessed.

So here we go...

I started with power line relocation. Original wiring diagram below.



So I extend the power cable from battery to switch and add disconnect point so I can split the body in half with no problem. Then I extend the second cable that runs from switch back to the receiver module. Added a disconnect point as well. Mas paspas ni sya kay sa mag ibot ko from the receiver connector. Below, wiring done but the solder points not insulated yet.



Then the next plan is to place the two switches somewhere discrete. So I am thinking that this is the best place. Time for some dremel works again...




First, we need to slide through the hatch and start grinding slots for the switches. What I mean is...



It takes a while to grind that hatch. And after some clumpsy attempts, here's what its like. Top one in black is the power switch. The one in the middle is the smoke machine switch and the one at the bottom is the shell weapon system switch.


Switch transfer completed.