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The Nelly Gardens – symbol of Iloilo’s grandiose past
A visit to Iloilo gives a visitor a feeling of a place with a rich and glorious past. Standing side by side on a busy street is an Internet café and an Antillean mansion. For such is the charm of Iloilo, the cradle of old world genteel aristocracy that has morphed with new age technology like an eclectic tapestry.
When the Spaniards came to Iloilo in the 16th century, they discovered a people with two outstanding characteristics: industry and flair. The women had a penchant for beautiful clothes and jewelry and the men were driven to trade and industry. As early as the 19th century when most of the Philippines was still in siesta, Iloilo’s international harbor was thriving with direct shipping lines to Hong Kong, Singapore, Australia, England, Europe and America. Aside from the staples of agriculture and fishing, her textile weaving industry has been on a large commercial scale and because of an abundance in timber, her shipyards were flourishing. So remarkable was the growth of commerce and trade that Spain’s Queen Regent, Maria Cristina elevated the status of Iloilo to that of a city in 1899. Inscribed in her coat of arms are the words, “La Muy Leal y Noble Ciudad de Iloilo.”
Thus Iloilo’s golden age had begun… her port was opened to international trade which gave way to the sugar rush during the Commonwealth period. This served as a backbone of Iloilo’s unprecedented growth. The fertile plains of Panay and the rich volcanic soil of Negros were ideal for sugarcane. Exports boomed and sugar farming became a world-class industry. A new breed of wealth emerged – the sugar barons. A number of sugar centrals mushroomed and more work opportunities were available; warehouses lined Muelle Loney, filled to the hilt with sugar to be transloaded to international vessels. Iloilo then became the undisputed leader among the provinces. Sugar money built majestic tree-lined ancestral mansions around the city, afforded family travels to Europe and to the world, opened new business establishments, bought carriages, automobiles and a fleet of servants for the privileged. Because of the expansion of trade and the rapid growth of business and economic activities, a number of foreign and local firms built offices and outlets – banks, stock exchange offices, machine shops, warehouses, retail shops, printing presses, educational institutions, medical facilities, commercial firms and social clubs.
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Muelle Loney – once a major international port
The Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation opened its only branch in the country in Iloilo; its main office was in Manila. The Standard & Chartered Bank, another British bank, opened its only provincial branch also in Iloilo. The first government owned bank; the Philippine National Bank opened its first branch in Iloilo through the efforts of Senator Jose Maria Arroyo. When President Manuel Quezon asked him “Why Iloilo?,” he merely replied, “because it’s where the money is.” Other British, Scottish, Spanish and American firms followed, Ker and Company, Stracchan and MacMurray, Elizalde and Co., Alhambra Cigar Factory, Wolf and Sons, Standard Oil Co., to name a few. Entrepreneurs included Danish, Catalan, Basque, Portuguese, Swiss and Americans. The first Anglo-Chinese commercial enclave emerged in Calle Real (now JM Basa Street) with the building of the first department store in the country, Hoskyn and Co. In 1947 the Panay Railways was constructed by JG White and Co. to link Panay, Capiz and Antique, the first railways built outside of Manila. Brothers Eugenio and Fernando Lopez installed the Iloilo Negros Air Express Co (INAEC), the boldest bid ever made in the Philippines for regular commercial aviation. “Deiers” rolled out its first car assembly plant in Iloilo while the country’s first double-decked buses plied its already concrete roads. By this time there was no limit to Iloilo’s progress, the first city outside of Manila to have modern conveniences like electricity, telephones, telegraph facilities, a railways system, concrete roads, an ice plant, a cinema, an air transport service, a car assembly plant, etc… It was during this golden age that she was dubbed the “Queen City of the South…”
Being a hub of activities, Iloilo became a playground of the rich, the famous and the powerful. Its illustrious sons include Don Ruperto Montinola, Ramon Avanceña, Victorino Mapa, Oscar Ledesma, Julio Ledesma, Vicente Lopez, Gregorio Araneta, Jose Maria Arroyo; and so many more. While Ilonggos knew how to work and run businesses, they also knew how to have fun with flair…
Tales of the affluent lifestyle of this period are legendary. It is said that trays of diamonds were given as gifts to friends and performing artists and one family kept an orchestra in-residence to play during their meals and lull them to sleep.
Casino Español was an exclusive club built by the Spaniards for the activities of Iloilo’s elite. Club Selecta’s annual summer ball held at this imposingly elegant architecture of roman columns was a big event in the good old days, when champagne and wine flowed to the tune of two live bands.
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A Pas de Quatre and Rigodon de Honor were the order of the night. Participants included the crème de la crème of Ilonggo cosmopolitan society, ballgowns made by Manila couturiers and Iloilo’s own Ben Natividad were graced by the indays with their sedate beauties and social graces. Secret service men had to be deployed to watch over the society matrons, their debutantes and their jewelry said to cost from P100, 000.00 to P500, 000.00 at that time. The gentlemen’s predilection to vanity required them to wear tuxedos. Visitors included expatriates, senators, mayors, foreign dignitaries and businessmen from Manila, Negros and Iloilo.
One of the playgrounds for the Ilonggos then was the Polo Golf Club. Designed by a Scot and built in the 1900s by the Americans and British who worked for Panay Railways, it is now more popularly known as the Santa Barbara Golf and Country Club. It is the first golf course in the country and the oldest in Southeast Asia. Many a “fore” was heard here long before it became a popular sport.
The Jaro fiesta on February 2nd in honor of La Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria was (and still is) a showcase of opulence and grandeur. Children of well-to-do and respected Iloilo families were made to join the Rigodon de Honor and most prestigious queen reigns for a year after a grandiose coronation ball held at midnight in the Jaro Plaza amidst fireworks and band music. Foreign diplomats, politicians and dignitaries were invited to crown the queen and participate in the country’s most lavish ball.
Ilonggos travelled in style and Don Esteban dela Rama launched the country’s first luxury liner, the S/S Don Esteban. In contrast to the usual Manila bound ships, it had deluxe cabins with private baths, a spacious lounge, open decks and a dining room that was a replica of those found in first class European ocean liners.
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Yes, in the good old days Ilonggos knew how to live in style. It was during this time when their culture was a study in extremes – a handful elite landowners and hacienderos lived an extravagant lifestyle throwing lavish parties in their ostentatious palaces with frescoed ceilings and humongous dining rooms with a servant in every nook and cranny while the ordinary man tilled the soil for him. Young girls studied in convent schools run by nuns where they were taught French and English. Dinner cruises were a weekend fare and whatever was fashionable in Europe was fashionable in Iloilo. Patriarchs did not only purchase huge tracts of land but entire islands as well, where they built more mansions and entertained more people. Tales of the affluent lifestyle of this period are legendary. It is said that trays of diamonds were given as gifts to friends and performing artists and one family kept an orchestra in-residence to play during their meals and lull them to sleep. “Mayabang” or snobbishness is a character trait inherited from their Hispanic ancestors and yet they were also very generous, as tales run about a señor who on his birthday would call his obreros and tear up their whole year’s vale (cash advances) in front of them. Ilonggos are also clannish; reputations were considered sacred; and the family name, a precious inheritance.
A queen dies slowly…
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After World War II, Iloilo’s crown was tarnished with the impending decline in business and the rebuilding of a war-ravaged city. The city has not quite regained its stature as the Queen City of the South, a title she lost to Cebu some years later. The old moneyed families left for Manila, to more lucrative opportunities. They sent their children abroad to study and they never came back. The tree-lined antique laden structures and the Antillean mansions are now empty save for an encargado and his family who take charge of maintaining them, if and when funds trickle in. Casino Español stands as a ravaged skeleton, a silent reminder of its past glory. The Plaza Alfonso XII (now Plaza Libertad) is bare and empty, only its chipped marbled park benches remain a mute witness to the good old days, where a band used to play in its magnificent band-stand on the Alameda.
The glorious days are over but in its place, a new breed of Ilonggos with the same passion for flair and industry as their forebears have risen. These are the intellectual elite; the tai pan capitalists, the new entrepreneurs and contract workers. Migrant money. Nouveau riche. A new middle class of hardworking entrepreneurs closed the gap between the rich and the poor. For when Iloilo’s power as an economic force waned, its people were compelled to adjust their lifestyle accordingly.
Today, the city continues its march towards progress and its children have learned to live in simple peace and harmony. The province’s heritage is the Ilonggo’s solitary pride, in every sense, she is still “muy leal y noble,” the knowledge that somewhere in time, there truly was a golden age in this land. There is just too much evidence all around the province today and to the modern Ilonggo, it still is, the best of times.



      
					
					
					
						
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