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  1. #11

    hehe. see. so mao na akong input on watercooling. i dont even OC anymore. i run stock now.

    "then why do i watercool?"

    - because i can. i get the parts free in exchange for pics of my builds they can use for marketing or unsa pa na diha.

    "would i spend on it?"

    - if i can afford it... YES. why not? ka nindot ra ah. hehe. but since i really can't.. then NO.

  2. #12
    hehehe... been looking here for a Socket 478/479 Open LCS CPU block para sa Pentium M 770... for the looks lang ba... ahahahaha... wla pa ko maka kita...

  3. #13
    buslotan nalang ang motherboard boss. haha.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by AcidSuicide View Post
    i use only distilled water. not even the "special" kind.. just grocery-ready bottles from wilkins or absolute. silver kill coils in some instances cause more harm than good. the SINGLE purpose of the kill coil is to prevent algae. so, unless your PC is getting direct sunlight, algae cannot grow. however.. since you now have SILVER in your loop.. you are now mixing metals. silver erodes the nickel plating on copper waterblocks. ive read EK denied RMA on gpu blocks due to corrosion on nickel plating because the user used a kill coil. that is also why there is hardly ever a warranty on water cooling blocks apart from defects "upon delivery" like cracks on nickel plating, mis alligned threading, shipping defects like bent rad fins, inlet/outlet ports and etc. you will never get an RMA if you corrode your block. ( EKWaterBlocks Support :: Knowledge Base :: Antimicrobial (algae) protection? )

    so to make an already long story less long.. just practice proper and regular maintenance, regardless of what you use. water cooling is not a set-and-forget kind of thing. dont build a loop without a proper drain port to make life a little easier when the need arises. kung kapoyan mu ug huna huna sa maintenance, then i suggest you do not even bother getting started. look at it like a teenage pregnancy.. if you cant afford a child, then ayaw palabi habal. hehe. some users are really just better off sticking to traditional means of keeping there system in good condition.

    edit:

    adding to this.. bottomline is: if you can, then do. in ANY hobby, when you ask "do i really need it?" is always irrelevant because in reality.. we never "really" do. BRUTAL TRUTH -keeping my system cool so it will last longer- or -perform better are just excuses we make to ourselves to justify the ridiculous amounts of cash we've spent for the hobby. iv'e accepted that a long time ago. kay kung "for having a long lasting pc" lang jud ang rason: i have a PC in the sala.. Pentium D. stock cooler. subject to daily abuse from my aunt, cousin and sometimes my kids. ive had it since 2005-6. still running. ive only had to replace the hard drive. even the generic PSU still kicks.

    so again.. do it because you want to and can.
    Thank you for the link boss jesse, this would be a big help . 'Kill Coil' failed to protect the system.

    I am still doubtful cuz' i'm not sure what chemicals/substances/materials to use to prevent algae and corrosion on my loop.

    I am using Triple Distilled Water + Mayhem UV Green Dye + Silver Kill Coil Anti Algae.

    What do you recommend boss?
    Last edited by wylliexhan; 02-27-2015 at 01:48 AM.

  5. #15
    okay naman imong gi gamit ron i guess, apart from the kill coil. it's basic science that corrosion will occur if there are mixed metals in your system.. hence the always present rust and corrosion in the worlds water systems. although it is proven that silver is a natural agent for stopping algae growth, you are pressed with an issue of possible corrosion. im no expert on water treatment though. your loop is fine, since im speculating that mayhems already included some sort of anti corrosion agent in their dye, but i could be wrong. akong ma sulti lang is just proper maintenance. at least once a year, you flush out your system. clean rads with vinegar, rinse with distilled. clean blocks sa sulod with a soft toothbrush and rinse with distilled. lisud man mag rely on other people's experience because it is hardly ever definite. lain lain jud. some say never use only water without additives, some say otherwise. some have bad experiences with dye, some dont. so it all boils down to one common answer.. proper and regular MAINTENANCE lang. build your loop with considering the importance of future maintenance. accessible fill ports and drain ports. spend extra cash on 3 more fittings: t-block/q-block, a male to male rotary and a drain plug or valve. di ka mag mahay. been there, done that. kapoy kaayo suyop suyop tubig ug tayhop tayhop tube. mao nang ma procrastinate nalang nimo ang pag limpyo kay "kapoy" man. hehe.

    and for those who are considering watercooling: dont go into it with a half-baked commitment. kay ang resulta ana... BUY and SELL. palit nimo mahal, baligya nimo barato. dala pa mahay usahay. hehe

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by AcidSuicide View Post
    okay naman imong gi gamit ron i guess, apart from the kill coil. it's basic science that corrosion will occur if there are mixed metals in your system.. hence the always present rust and corrosion in the worlds water systems. although it is proven that silver is a natural agent for stopping algae growth, you are pressed with an issue of possible corrosion. im no expert on water treatment though. your loop is fine, since im speculating that mayhems already included some sort of anti corrosion agent in their dye, but i could be wrong. akong ma sulti lang is just proper maintenance. at least once a year, you flush out your system. clean rads with vinegar, rinse with distilled. clean blocks sa sulod with a soft toothbrush and rinse with distilled. lisud man mag rely on other people's experience because it is hardly ever definite. lain lain jud. some say never use only water without additives, some say otherwise. some have bad experiences with dye, some dont. so it all boils down to one common answer.. proper and regular MAINTENANCE lang. build your loop with considering the importance of future maintenance. accessible fill ports and drain ports. spend extra cash on 3 more fittings: t-block/q-block, a male to male rotary and a drain plug or valve. di ka mag mahay. been there, done that. kapoy kaayo suyop suyop tubig ug tayhop tayhop tube. mao nang ma procrastinate nalang nimo ang pag limpyo kay "kapoy" man. hehe.

    and for those who are considering watercooling: dont go into it with a half-baked commitment. kay ang resulta ana... BUY and SELL. palit nimo mahal, baligya nimo barato. dala pa mahay usahay. hehe
    "kapoy kaayo suyop suyop tubig ug tayhop tayhop tube"
    -> ka relate ko ani boss katong nag cm eisberg pako haha, kay ari man ko nag fill sa liquid sa akong 150mm res, then what happened is dli man maka duot ang pump, dli maka rotate sa tubig, you need to fill the liquid at the res sa eisberg before cya maka circulate sa liquid, so akong gibuhat to imong gi ingon nga tayhop tayhop sa tube haha.. Ang naka apan lang kay wala koy Drain Port lisod kaayo mag drain sa liquid tsk3x, ako buhaton ako pang tangtangon ang tube then ara nako maka drain, wa jd ko ka huna2 aning Drain port dah, thanks ani nga idea, mag butang ko sunod og Drain Port near on my 150mm Res arun mura na og GRIPO ..

  7. #17
    based on experience, from single loop to multiple loop systems nga akong nabuhat

    question : DO WE NEED IT?

    -for me i need it, medyo mahal-mahal cya pero naa koy peace of mind nga well cooled akong mga components, dli lang kay bling bling, second considering the noise nga ma generate kung naka air lang ka, image running 2 290x ref card on @ air 80% fan speed, murag naay blender sa tupad nmu taga mag games ka,

    - PARTS

    for the parts, choose the basic nga kaya ra nmu ma setup, like using flex tubes, dali ra e setup, mura rakag ka plug and play, dali ra nmu ma estimate ang length of tube, if you have the tools, go for hardtube, cons lang, ang bending and cuting sa tube, fittings, minimum number of compression/barbs for a cpu loop, 8pcs, unless you have a male -male extender which makes it 6, wa pay labot angled fittings, water used, distilled water ra akong g gamit (absolute / wilkins etc) bsta DISTILLED lang.

    murag mao rani akong ma sulti. hehehe

  8. #18
    C.I.A. jesse5648's Avatar
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    daghan jud ko na learn ani dah, hehehe from type of coolant nga gamiton, excited nako magstart nag butang sa WCS, hulat nlng jud nako next 3/15/15 pay out para ma completo akong budget para makapamalit nakos components hahaha

    clarify lang nako ang drain port mao ni sya??
    kaning murag naay tuyokanan sa gripo?? normally pila ni sya?? i guess bitspower ni ang akong nakit.an na pic, but what are other drain port nga barato2 lang??

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by jesse5648 View Post
    daghan jud ko na learn ani dah, hehehe from type of coolant nga gamiton, excited nako magstart nag butang sa WCS, hulat nlng jud nako next 3/15/15 pay out para ma completo akong budget para makapamalit nakos components hahaha

    clarify lang nako ang drain port mao ni sya??
    kaning murag naay tuyokanan sa gripo?? normally pila ni sya?? i guess bitspower ni ang akong nakit.an na pic, but what are other drain port nga barato2 lang??
    uu.. mAo na ang drain valve. on your pic, what it is attached to is a T-Block. si pinoyrigz naay OEM nga drain valve and t-block or q block.

  10. #20
    C.I.A. jesse5648's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AcidSuicide View Post
    uu.. mAo na ang drain valve. on your pic, what it is attached to is a T-Block. si pinoyrigz naay OEM nga drain valve and t-block or q block.
    as i research about it boss, when it comes to drain block, di ni sya vital nga part nga dapat branded jud tama bah?? as long as wala lang syay leak bisag OEM ok ra sa drain block, sakto ba?

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