Mitsubishi 4G92 Engine ECI to Carburetor

[bonjovax]

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I have a friend of mine that has a 1996 Mitsubishi Lancer GLXi. He wanted his Fuel System to Convert it from ECI Multi to Carburetor.

Is that Possible?

Ang Rason: Ang Servo daw sigeg kaguba nya mahal kaayo ipa ayo (Is that true?)

[Flak128mm]

I have a friend of mine that has a 1996 Mitsubishi Lancer GLXi. He wanted his Fuel System to Convert it from ECI Multi to Carburetor.

Is that Possible?

Ang Rason: Ang Servo daw sigeg kaguba nya mahal kaayo ipa ayo (Is that true?)

Its possible boss, but not efficient and not economical. A better solution is to scan for defaults codes on the ecu. Then from there you'll start fixing.

[norrissee]

Sayang gyud kaayo if you convert it to a carb, resale value of the car drops gyud since you would be taking out A LOT of the electronics in the car (ecu, wirings, fuel pump, etc)

Here's a ghetto fix if you don't want to replace the servo and can live with a higher than normal idle speed with the AC off.

- Warm up the engine to operating temp (or go out for a drive)
- Switch off the engine when it reaches operating temp (or when you get back from that drive)
- Unplug the connector going to the servo motor (throttle body area)
- Start the car, the engine "might" die due to lower than normal idle, if it does just throttle it a bit to keep it from dying.
- Adjust the BISS screw so that you idle around 1200 - 1300 rpms (the screw on top of the throttle body that raises or lowers the idle)
- Turn on the AC and check if the idle drops to around 900 - 1000 rpms... adjust accordingly.

You "might" have some cold start issues with this workaround but still beats replacing your idle servo motor again and again

[bonjovax]

Sayang gyud kaayo if you convert it to a carb, resale value of the car drops gyud since you would be taking out A LOT of the electronics in the car (ecu, wirings, fuel pump, etc)

Here's a ghetto fix if you don't want to replace the servo and can live with a higher than normal idle speed with the AC off.

- Warm up the engine to operating temp (or go out for a drive)
- Switch off the engine when it reaches operating temp (or when you get back from that drive)
- Unplug the connector going to the servo motor (throttle body area)
- Start the car, the engine "might" die due to lower than normal idle, if it does just throttle it a bit to keep it from dying.
- Adjust the BISS screw so that you idle around 1200 - 1300 rpms (the screw on top of the throttle body that raises or lowers the idle)
- Turn on the AC and check if the idle drops to around 900 - 1000 rpms... adjust accordingly.

You "might" have some cold start issues with this workaround but still beats replacing your idle servo motor again and again

Thanks for the Ghetto Tips Bud. I'm gonna out the error codes on his ECU before I can fix this thing. Man this is the first time I encounter a Car Owner that wants to convert it from Modern Fuel System to Traditional. Kaso lang, its easy to repair on a carby. But with ECI, its cumbersome.

[norrissee]

It's actually the other way around once you get to know the EFI systems. They're actually more reliable and efficient. Easier also to repair especially with the OBD2s since you will know exactly which part of the engine is having problems, lesser guessing games.

Anyway, what error codes is the ecu throwing?

[bonjovax]

It's actually the other way around once you get to know the EFI systems. They're actually more reliable and efficient. Easier also to repair especially with the OBD2s since you will know exactly which part of the engine is having problems, lesser guessing games.

Anyway, what error codes is the ecu throwing?

Well I got this reading,
P0505
P0120

Got ihas with this. But hey its a snap and real time

[norrissee]

Well the P0505 code is caused by the servo (Idle air control valve). Doing the "ghetto fix" MAY also throw the P0505 code. But most of the time it won't especially if you reset the ECU after doing the "fix".

The P0120 on the other hand has something to do with your TPS which is the black thing that is connected to your throttle body. Usually to the opposite side of where your accelerator cable is attached. Might be just dirty contacts or might be out of adjustment or might just have died

After fixing those you can reset the ECU and error codes by taking out the neg battery terminal and pressing on the brake pedal for around 30 secs to a minute to drain any remaining power from the system.