Best dog training secrets

[Happy Pet Cebu]

---

Hello everyone,

I would like to share to all dog lovers this book, 1000 Best Dog Training Secrets,
which will reveal the secrets of raising an obedient
dog and nurturing a positive relationship. Beginning
with housebreaking and obedience training,
through to behavior problem solving and even
trick-training. This book gives us the knowledge and
skills to raise the best dog we will ever own!
Some of the secrets are “how to” secrets, some
are “when to,” and some of them are “why to”
secrets. Other secrets are “practice secrets,” “game
plan secrets,” and “real life secrets.”


Enjoy reading...

[Happy Pet Cebu]

Part One:

Ages and Stages, Needs at
Each Stage
Each stage of a dog’s life has specific characteristics
and learning needs for him. If you approach
“puppy raising” with the same attention you do
“child rearing,” you can be a much more effective
leader and have a better-behaved dog. This section
will detail the various stages of a dog’s “growingup”
and how we can teach all of the important
skills and concepts to ensure that our dogs will
not only be great companions, but safe and mannerly
members of society as well!



EXPECTATIONS FOR PUPPYHOOD

1.Life is all about ME! Me, me, me! Expect
nothing less than that from your puppy!
Basically we are their servants in this stage. Their
needs mimic the immediate needs of an infant or
young toddler. Keep in mind that it has nothing to
do with your puppy being bratty—it’s just his
immediate needs that need tending. Do tend to
them right away.

2.Love, love, love.Yes, since this is the stage of
adoration, you will easily fall in love with
your puppy. Take lots of pictures, but be careful
not to overindulge and spoil your puppy. This will
be the most difficult part of raising your puppy,
but is essential in creating a cooperative, good
dog!

3.While there are fundamental skills you can
begin to generate in puppyhood, you are
really in a “holding pattern” of sorts.Your puppy is
just too young for formal obedience training in
this life stage. Your job now is to prevent errors,
teach concepts, and keep puppy safe until she can
learn her obedience skills at five months of age.

4.Puppies act on instincts. Puppies come
equipped with only their canine instincts
and are acting strictly on what they know genetically.
They are not in control of their emotions,
nor do they preplan actions. They just act on their
instincts until we teach them to resist urges. Do
not punish, but redirect them and remain patient!

5.Limitations: Puppies literally have no selfcontrol
at this stage.They tend to do whatever
pops into their little minds. This is part instinct and
part lack of self-control. Don’t expect your puppy to
make good choices or to always be well behaved.

6.Trying to “break” your puppy of instinctual
behaviors (like mouthing) will not work.You
can teach your puppy to stop using her mouth to
communicate when you teach her an alternate
method of communicating. Until then, attempting
to use “quick fixes” to curb these behaviors will
only serve to diminish your puppy’s confidence in
you as a leader. Techniques for dealing with
teething, nipping, and mouthing are described
later in this chapter.

7.Puppies have a limited attention span and
can only “behave,” or rather, be kept out of
trouble, for a limited amount of time. As they grow
and as we teach them, they do develop an attention
span. It’s important to know now that they
can only concentrate for short periods of time.
8.Once your puppy’s mental battery has worn
down and repetitive, improper behaviors
begin, any attempt to redirect will be futile. Take
your puppy to the crate for rest.

9.Your puppy can learn the housebreaking
routine, but his body cannot “hold” all of his
bodily functions no matter how much he may
want to do this. At roughly four and a half to five
months of age, your puppy’s body will catch up in
development and be able to control his flow of
urine from the body. Very frequent potty breaks
will help this routine.

10.Get Real! Keep your expectations realistic.
Puppyhood is the stage where we
must be completely responsible for our puppies.
Do not expect your puppy to behave like an adult
dog. Know her limitations and work with them
into the next stage of learning.

[Happy Pet Cebu]

YOUR PUPPY’S NEEDS


MENTAL NEEDS

11.While your puppy’s mental needs are
small right now, her learning capability is
great. The mental needs are small because her rest
needs are much higher in comparison. But the lessons
she is learning through observation and environmental
response to her exploration are great.
She needs to get positive feedback from learning—
both from you and from the environment.

12.View every time you are with your puppy
as a learning session. These sessions
need to be positive and well guided to ensure success.
If she’s not supervised well or is only “half
supervised,” her chances of getting into trouble
are greater. Making continuous mistakes and continually
getting scolded is not fun or positive for
anyone!

13.Keep your puppy’s “learning sessions”
short. Learning is exhausting for a
puppy! They are trying to learn how to live in a
human world and this generally means that none
of their “doggie skills” are applicable (rough play,
food guarding, mouthing, etc.) His learning and
“unlearning” must be in small doses.
Puppy

14.Crating your puppy for periodic breaks
will keep her learning sessions small
and will not mentally exhaust or frustrate her. A
tired or frustrated puppy will not learn well or
eagerly. Crate time will help her recharge for the
next session.

15.Exploration at this stage is usually
curiosity driven and not genetically
driven (e.g., hunting instincts) and therefore probably
won’t cause repetitive nuisance behaviors at
this stage (see chapter 12). However, an “ounce of
prevention” is truly worth more than trying to
“pound the cure into her.” Prevention, by supervising
your puppy as she explores, is critical in
maintaining curiosity and safety at the same
time.
Physical Needs

16.Your puppy’s physical needs come in
short bursts. A small walk up and down
the block is fine for a youngster. If you do a walk
that is too long, your puppy will sit down and
refuse to walk. You may even need to pick her up
and carry her home! Keep your walks short and
build time and pace slowly.

17.Don’t take your puppy jogging and
expect her to keep up with you for a
great distance. Keep the runs short in duration.
Running on a long leash is fine if done in a soft,
grassy area, but high-impact jumping or running
should be avoided until your dog is one year of
age. Their bones are still developing and you don’t
want to risk injury or impairment of proper development.

18.One or two small walks per day along
with one or two short runs in puppyhood
is a rather general, but appropriate “recipe”
to meet your dog’s physical needs. Keep in mind
that the balance will be different with different
breeds so make adjustments accordingly!

[Happy Pet Cebu]

SOCIAL NEEDS

19.Your puppy’s social needs are extremely
important right now. This is probably the
most important need to fulfill at this stage
because she is forming all of her impressions
about the world right now. Preplan many social
activities at this stage so your puppy gets proper
exposure to as many different people, animals,
environments, and objects as possible.

20.In the case of social exposures for your
puppy, “the more the merrier” doesn’t
always apply. Never sacrifice quality for quantity.
Control the exposures to other animals so they
don’t scare your puppy. Visit new places during
off-peak times so they will not be overwhelming.
Use food to introduce new objects. The more positive
learning experiences your puppy gets, the
faster she will learn good social skills.

21.All too often it is tempting to treat puppies
to a magic carpet ride, picking them
up to either carry them from one point to another
or to immediately try to reassure them if something
(a loud noise or quick movement) startles
them. While we must be aware that there may be
certain times when picking them up may prevent
harm and a negative learning experience, we
must also be willing to allow puppies to experience
new situations to their fullest potential. If we
act as if there is something wrong with every new
or different situation, our puppies will take our
cue and assume something is wrong as well.

22.Give them a “safety net.” When it comes
to navigating steps or getting in and out of
cars or up and down stairs, assist your puppy. Since
we don’t want their little furry joints to become
injured, we must develop a sense of how much
assistance to provide while still allowing them to
acclimate to their environment. We can assist our
puppies in these learning situations by offering the
same type of “safety net” that we offer when we
place our hands under a toddler’s armpits to “unweight”
them as they learn to walk.

[Happy Pet Cebu]

Rest Needs

23.Rip Van Puppy: At this stage, puppies
need more naps than most people
expect. Napping in a quiet crate, in a quiet room,
will help them recharge their little puppy batteries.
When a puppy is well rested, he will take
direction from you better, mouth you less, learn
things more cooperatively, and have more fun
playing with you. Rest recharges the battery, but
nothing recharges the battery like sleep. Sleep
occurs during nighttime when the dark reduces
stimuli and your puppy can slip into a deep sleep

BASIC PUPPY MANNERS

25.Probably the most frequent complaint of
all clients is “my dog jumps on people.”
One of the problems is that we accidentally nurture
the jumping from the start by picking them
up while they are jumping at us. The “proper”way
to pick up a puppy (so as not to nurture the jumping
problem!) is to turn the puppy away from you
first, then pick her up with one arm under her
chest and armpits and one arm supporting her
rump. Do not pick her up when she is facing you
or climbing on you. Recognize the early request
for a cuddle but turn it into a positive pattern
starting on the first day!

[Happy Pet Cebu]

THE NAME GAME!
SOCIALIZEYOUR PUPPY TO HER NEW NAME

For this exercise you will need two people. Both
people need to sit on the floor facing each other
six or eight feet apart. Have a long leash on your
puppy. One person has the loop end of the leash
and the other person has the puppy. Hold the
puppy so he faces the person with the loop. Have
the person with the loop call the puppy’s name.
Person Two may need to push the puppy towards
Person One. Person One reels the puppy in with
the leash. When your puppy gets to Person One,
praise and give a treat.
Make sure to only use your puppy’s name and
praise. Give a treat every time. Repeat this exercise
at least ten times per session. The lesson we
can teach the puppy is “when I hear my name and
come running, I get a cookie.” You will need to
repeat the practice session at least four times a
week. Children can also assist in this exercise with
the parent’s immediate supervision.

26.After your puppy appears to recognize
her name, you can try a different exercise.
Take your puppy outside on the long leash.
Wait until your puppy becomes interested in a
scent or is wandering around. Call her name (only
her name) and motivate by patting your legs and
repeating her name. Reel her in if necessary.
Praise and give a treat for returning to you. Repeat
this exercise ten times each session.

27.While you are raising your puppy, you
can use her name to divert her from
improper behaviors and redirect her to you. If you
find your puppy starting to chew on a plant or leg
of a chair, call her name in a cheery, positive tone
and she will leave the object behind and eagerly
trot over to you. Praise and give her a treat.

28.Don’t worry—your puppy won’t learn to
chew things for a treat. Her attention
span is so short she will only remember her name
and the treat. This diversion/redirection will only
work if you keep your puppy’s name positive!
(Remember, reprimand will not teach her a lesson
at this age. The desire for discovery will override
any “social lesson.”)

Earn It and Learn It

29.Begin simple daily manners by having
your puppy sit to have her leash put on,
sit before she is served her meal, sit for treats, and
sit at doorways before exiting. This will not only
promote etiquette but will also get her in the
habit of cooperating with you on a daily basis.

30.There are basic skills of sitting, downing,
and walking on a leash that your puppy
can learn during this stage. Working with you,
taking direction, earning rewards, and “learning to
enjoy learning” are all accomplished by doing
these exercises at this time.

[Happy Pet Cebu]

Teaching the “PUPPY SIT”

31.With your puppy at your left side, place
your right hand on the collar and your
left hand on your puppy’s rump just above her
tail. “Roll” your puppy’s haunches under with a
tuck of your left hand. As you’re rolling your
puppy’s rump under, gently apply upward and
backward pressure with the collar. As you’re placing
the puppy into the position, say “SIT.” When
the puppy is there, cheerfully say “Good SIT!”

32.Do not push down on your puppy’s
pelvis and never use force when teaching
SIT! Your puppy’s rump should roll right under
her as you slide your hand down and over her tail.
If you curl your hand gently under her buttocks
while you do this, she will automatically roll her
haunches under for you.

Teaching the “Puppy Down”

33.Begin with your puppy in a SIT by your
left side. Place your left hand on your
puppy’s upper shoulders and back, with your right
hand underneath your puppy’s front legs, palms up.
With a sweeping motion, move your right hand
forward as you gently push your puppy’s front
feet forward and out from underneath him. While
doing this, apply gentle, steady pressure downward
on your puppy’s shoulders as your puppy slides
softly into the DOWN position. As you place the
puppy into the position, say “DOWN.” When the
puppy is there, cheerfully say “Good DOWN!”

Teaching Your Puppy “Follow-the-Leader”
Skills and Leash Etiquette

34.At this point it isn’t important for your
puppy to walk directly at the HEEL position.
It is more important for her to learn to happily
accept walking on a leash somewhere near
you. This means no excessive pulling or dragging
behind.

35.Begin by calling your puppy’s name and
saying, “Let’s go!” Pat your leg, encourage
your puppy with your voice, and praise her for following.
36.When your puppy becomes distracted,
gently tug on the leash, saying “No,”
then say “Here!” When she responds, looks at you,
and follows you, praise her heartily!

37.If your puppy is a puller, turn away from
her to get her attention.You may have to
make several turns in each session to teach her to
stay by your side. Do not expect her to hold a true
HEEL at this time in her life. Just concentrate on
having her learn to look for you.

If your puppy bites at the leash when you walk,
give her a toy to carry on the walk. This will avoid
a “tug-of-war” situation. You can also spray a bitters
spray on the leash before each walk to discourage
her from putting the leash in her mouth.

[tomgalang]

Yeheee. Ma dungagan napod atong stock knowledge. yeeyyy

[Happy Pet Cebu]

still more are coming...

[scope_hunting]

thanks for sharing.. makat-on ta