Dumaguete: Philippines' city of surprises
It is absurdly easy to fall in love with Dumaguete, a city that still acts like it’s a small town, with friendly locals, an easy pace that invites a visitor to slow down, and a genteel grace that belies its city status. The city, capital of Negros Oriental province, was a welcome respite from my usual world of deadlines and the corresponding stress.
Rizal Boulevard
From the airport, we passed by Rizal Boulevard, the main thoroughfare, where on one side, shops, sari-sari stores and restaurants stood close like gossiping girlfriends, while on the other side, was the perfect blue of Tañon Strait, which connects Negros island and Cebu. If you squint you can make out the island of Siquijor. The boulevard gave a perfect picture of a busy little coastal town, complete with the drone of tricycles and the boats at port. I opened the window of the van and immediately caught the smell of the sea—mixed with the dust of motorists. It was unexpected—like a lot of the other things I would discover.
Dumaguete’s biggest lure for tourists is its position: It is considered the portal to several other destinations—a ferry ride away to Siquijor, Cebu, and even some parts of Mindanao. Many visitors stop for supplies in the city before heading to resorts in Negros, or pass by for a drink (or two) on the way back. For those with no surfing or beachcombing inclinations, the city offers its own charms and distractions. For instance, my temporary home in Dumaguete was the unabashedly pretty Spanish-style hotel, La Residencia Almar. Once the residence of Negros Oriental’s governor, this hotel has 17 rooms and a lovely, cozy feel that smacks more of a visit to a friend’s home. It’s also conveniently located on Rizal Boulevard. That first morning at the hotel, with sunlight streaming through my room’s glass and wrought-iron windows, I looked out into the boulevard with its acacia trees and clean sidewalks, and I am again reminded that I am far away from Manila’s bustle. I went down for breakfast, eager to start exploring.
Over toast, eggs and bacon, Penn Larena of the city tourism council gave me a quick rundown of Dumaguete’s history. It was national hero Dr. Jose Rizal who first dubbed Dumaguete “The Town of Gentle People” (after its charter in 1948, it became a city) when he visited, a statement about the friendly locals. “He also called it ‘the little European town,’” Penn said. “He noticed a lot of the houses here displayed ornamental plants. Also, he heard piano-playing, and these reminded him of Europe.”
Tricycle in Dumaguete
After breakfast, Penn and I went for a walk. While vans, cars and jeeps ply Dumaguete City, tricycles rule the road. These trikes were not the compact ones I was used to back in Manila. I mentally called them “tricycle deluxe” because they were taller and wider, and can cart everything from people to animals to the occasional piece of furniture. I wondered if several could be hired to move entire houses. Many tourists ride tricycles from Dumaguete to nearby cities and resorts, easily more than an hour’s trip away.
Walking, however, is the best way to enjoy Dumaguete’s small-town charm. It’s especially picturesque going down Rizal Boulevard, named after the national hero who once took a stroll here before he was exiled to Dapitan. According to Penn, this 780-meter promenade was actually the model for Roxas Boulevard and the Baywalk in Manila. Like the Baywalk, many stroll down the promenade, particularly couples and tourists. Unlike the Baywalk, there’s a cleaner view of the water and the sea breeze smells better. It’s also lovelier, peppered with ancient acacia trees, palm trees, and Spanish-style lamps. Many bars and restaurants line the thoroughfare, so at night it’s not uncommon to see tipsy locals and expats on the many stone benches. Many events like festivals and parades happen here as well. On regular days, the area is perfect for those who want nothing more than to relax in one spot. I took advantage one afternoon, simply crossing the street from my hotel to sit on the nearest available bench. Breathing in the sea air, I was filled with an amazing serenity—and the impish urge to yell and jump into the water. Only a day in Dumaguete and I felt so free from cares and worries.
Silliman University
Dumaguete is also known as a university town, the “Boston of the Philippines,” says Penn. No less than seven universities and colleges sit within the city, including Silliman University—known for the country’s oldest writers’ workshop, which started in 1962. I’ve never applied for that fellowship, but I could imagine what bliss it would be: days of writing what you love, and within the easy pace of Dumaguete. Touring Silliman’s vast campus also made me yearn for my student days. Can you imagine studying in a place where there’s a breathtaking view of the ocean?
It was also when I visited Silliman, and later on Foundation University, that I felt Dumaguete’s balance of the modern and historical. Silliman Hall, the main building, is a perfectly preserved example of Victorian architecture. It was easy to pretend it was my huge colonial mansion, complete with sprawling gardens, scores of acacia trees, and a huge body of water as my neighbor across the street (it faces Rizal Boulevard). Constructed in 1903, one rumor says the building was shipped whole to the country by the founding Americans. Another story is it used to be a building in New York, broken down piece by piece, and reassembled exactly as it was here. During World War II, the Japanese army used the building as a sleeping area. Now, the hall is an anthropology museum and a printing press.
In Foundation University, students study or wait for their next class in a huge courtyard right in the middle of the main buildings. Stone benches, massive amounts of bougainvillea flowers, and a huge koi pond make the courtyard a romantic setting. Even more charming: I walked on concrete paths built over the pond on the way to the connecting buildings.
Also in Foundation University: the Medical Entheos IT Incorporated, a building filled to the brim with the latest computers and technical peripherals! “It’s for the university’s Medical Transcription classes,” explained instructor Toton Cena, while I gaped at all the equipment and tried to reconcile both images as being part of the same school.
St. Catherine of Alexandria Cathedral
The next day, Penn and I did a historical tour of the city. First stop was the Dumaguete Belfry. It is the last of four towers constructed in 1811 to warn the area of marauders. Amid the city’s commercial district, the belfry is a stunning sight, its stone walls glazed with moss. A short distance away is St. Catherine of Alexandria Cathedral, the largest church in the city and the oldest stone church in Negros (built in 1754 and reconstructed numerous times). Walking inside, there is that hushed reverent silence reserved for churches, but I also wished the very stones of the building could talk—what stories would they tell?
Nearby is Quezon Park, which, with its statue of Jose Rizal, reminded me of Luneta Park in Manila. It was a wonderful realization that even with the city’s bustling roads, it’s relatively easy to find a spot with a bit of quiet. Just don’t visit when the sun’s high—even with the park’s large trees it gets uncomfortably hot.
Right next to these quiet spots is the city’s main commercial area. The streets behind and connecting to Rizal Boulevard are crammed with restaurants, bars and cafés. It feels a little like looking at a collaborative portrait of how much Filipinos love to socialize. Many establishments have been here for years, like Sans Rival, a bakeshop established since 1977—it’s the best place for coffee and cake, according to the locals. In the evenings, grab a table at watering hole Coco Amigos, where locals bond over shots of tequila. For something truly unique, Penn and I stopped for Panda Fried Ice Cream. Imagine ice cream in a waffle-tasting shell that’s quickly browned in a pan. Delicious!
Lee Super Plaza, a multi-level department store and probably the city’s closest approximation of a mall, is a favorite hangout. Nearby are Dumaguete’s concessions to urbanization: McDonald’s, Jollibee, Greenwich and Shakey’s fastfood restaurants. Call-center companies have also set up shop. “Dumaguete is booming,” Penn explained. “Soon we’ll have our very own Robinsons mall and other fastfood restaurants.” The locals are excited, because apparently they go all the way to Cebu City to buy fastfood to take home to friends and family!
The thought of Dumaguete’s urban development unexpectedly caused a flare of melancholy in me. After my few days of living among the locals and touring the city, I was feeling a tad possessive and resistant at the idea of any more progress. It’s a testament to how congenial this city is, that a frazzled Manila girl could fall in love with it so deeply.
Sunrise at Santa Monica Beach Resort
NAVIGATE YOURSELF: DUMAGUETE CITY
NEED TO KNOW
Dumaguete is the capital of the province of Negros Oriental, Visayas. The city gets its name from the word “dagit,” Visayan for “to snatch,” as this coastal area often suffered from pillaging in the past. Dumaguete attracts tourists due to its ferry access to Cebu City and distance from nearby beaches and dive sites. Last year, Islands magazine named Dumaguete as one of the top 20 islands to live in, due to the low crime rate, relaxed and relatively affordable way of life, and friendly locals.
HOW TO GET THERE
Cebu Pacific (cebupacificair.com) and Air Philippines (airphils.com) fly twice daily to and from Manila to Dumaguete. From there it’s a 15-minute drive to Rizal Boulevard via taxi or tricycle.
WHEN TO GO
Summer, or the dry season is the best time to visit, around January to May.
WHAT TO DO
Indulge your inner romantic. Visit the many historic sites, such as the Dumaguete Belfry (Campanario de Dumaguete), St. Catherine of Alexandria Cathedral, and the Chinese Bell Tower. There are also many ancestral homes.
Take a stroll. Walk the length of Rizal Boulevard and view the Tañon Strait. Or pack a picnic and sit under one of the many acacia trees. It’s also a great place to people-watch, especially in the late afternoons.
Go back to school. “There are seven colleges/universities, 21 private schools, and almost 30 public elementary and secondary schools,” says Penn Larena. Take a tour of the campuses, like Silliman University, the country’s first Protestant university. In May, Silliman hosts the Dumaguete National Summer Writers’ Workshop (geocities.com/nwwdumaguete/main). Founded by Edilberto K. Tiempo, only 12 fellowship spots are open.
Celebrate the way the locals do. Foundation University is central to many festivals like the Kasadyaan Festival (the Philippines’ version of Mardi Gras) and the Buglasan Festival in October, filled with cultural dancing and shows.
Market yourself. Every Wednesday, farmers visit the Malatapay Market (about 20 minutes from Dumaguete city) to sell fresh produce and live animals like goats and pigs. After shopping, enjoy fresh seafood at the open-air, seaside restaurant. Barangay Malauay, Zamboangita, Negros Oriental
Go on a sugar high. With its signature blue and white striped façade reminiscent of old French cafés, go to Sans Rival, which claims to be the original creator of this favorite dessert.. For something more portable, try their silvanas (smaller cakes with creamy butter filling in a meringue crust). For a unique play of textures, there’s Panda Fried Ice Cream—a shell of crushed ice cream cones coating a scoop of ice cream, fried in a pan.
Make eating—and drinking—a favorite pastime. Bars and restaurants lining Rizal Boulevard guarantee a great view. Don Atilano Steakhouse in La Residencia Almar serves great local and continental breakfasts. Boston Market has European fare like pasta and pizza. Scooby’s is the local fastfood joint noted for its Western dishes—and its Internet café. Coco Amigos serves authentic Mexican fare. For a native feel, there’s Payag sa Likod, which has native huts perfect for big groups, and Hayahay Tree House Bar & Viewdeck. For live music and cheap beer, there’s Why Not Resto-Bar. At the end of the promenade, you have a tempurahan, stalls selling balut (boiled duck’s egg), squid balls, and fish fillets fried in tempura batter.
Be a water baby. Take advantage of Dumaguete’s proximity to beaches and dive sites. Drive to Bais Bay for whale- and dolphin-watching in October. Visit Apo Island for snorkeling around its famous coral reef. Sunbathe on the white beaches of Siquijor. Swim, fish or boat in Lakes Balinsasayao and Danaw, known as the twin lakes.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Palwa has complimentary Wi-Fi and a cozy, elegant feel. Rates start at P699/night inclusive of breakfast. Dr. V. Locsin St., telefax (35) 442-8995, (+63917) 720-1081, e-mail
hotelpalwa@yahoo.com
La Residencia Almar has the authentic, homey feel of a Spanish colonial mansion. Rates start at P1,325/night for twin sharing. Rizal Blvd., tel (35) 225-7100, e-mail
lresidencia-ygh@yahoo.com
Bethel Guest House is a popular choice for tourists. However, they don’t allow smoking or drinking within the premises. Rates start at P850/night for studio-type rooms. Rizal Blvd., tel (35) 225-2000, bethelguesthouse.com
RECOMMENDED!
While it’s thoroughly enjoyable to explore Dumaguete on your own, consider hiring a tour guide who can point you to the better places to check out—plus regale you with local history. Penn Larena is an accredited guide from the Department of Tourism and coordinator of the Negros Tour Guide Club, tel (+63926) 800-2946, e-mail
larenatours@gmail.com,
negrostour@gmail.com.
Source:
Dumaguete: Philippines' city of surprises | Travel Inspirations | Yahoo! Philippines Travel
Originally Posted by randymunz
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