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Honda D13B-4 DIY Engine Mods for Fuel efficiency


This discussion is about "Honda D13B-4 DIY Engine Mods for Fuel efficiency" in the "Automotive" forums.
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  1. #1
    Elite Member KH0UJ's Avatar
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    Default Honda D13B-4/PH13Z DIY Engine Mods for Fuel efficiency


    Naa koy bag-ong gikalingawan ron, currently bought a Honda City with a D13B-4/PH13Z engine PGM FI Manual Transmission, naghinay2x na ko ug pang modify sa makina from Throttle Body coolant block bypass, Intake air sensor modification for a leaner gas squirts thus improving gas mileage, radiator mod for best heat dissipation, Radiator Temperature Sensor Mod, Plugged the top cover breather and installed a filter, plugged the Oil Chamber Breather and also installed a filter, All my mods so far gabase ra sad ko sa JDM D13B-4 Service Manual, unsa pa kahay laing mabuhat nga mods ani mga bossing?

    Im also planning to modify the engine HV distributor design, from a conventional 4 point HV selector via cam, gusto nako himuon ug pulse sensed iyang switching para wa nay mahilis nga contacts pero kinahanglan ug 4 kabu-ok nga ignition coil, pina ford ignition system ba hehe, karon unsa kahay angay nako gamiton nga ignition coil mga bossing kanang compact na nga 4 piece ignition coil with a 36KV rating on the output? I was thinking of getting a Namban ignition coil for MC kay sure ko 36KV to pero low resistance ang HT wire which is not good for a bit vibration kay by and by maputol pud so unsa kahay nindut gamiton nuh?

    Im also planning of installing a clutch switch, in this way di mustart ang makina kung wa ko gatunob sa clutch since manual man ni (U.S. Version Hondas have this) in this way mas safer siya compared sa current set-up being sold here in the philippines.

    Also planning to install a custom ignition kill Switch, in this way maabtan gyud ug buntag ang mu attempt ug carjack hehehe kay ako may magbu-ot asa nako putlon or asa nako itago ang magnetic reed switch, the switch im going to use is a magnet activated switch

    Also planning to use a smaller injectors to improve fuel mileage...

    Also Planning to remove the Fuel Tank EVAP System...

    Im currently analyzing on how to fix the idle @ 750 RPM even if it`s still cold or first start, Im still studying the principles and mechanics of the MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) kung unsa-on nako ug ilad2x ang sensor para ma-ilad sad ang ECU because I want the PGM EFI System to behave like a Carburetor Type siya, wa nako hilabti ang IACV kay perfect pa iyang operation...

    Note: ang gusto nako nga mods mahitabo kanang maka improve ug gas mileage, dili pang racing2x,

    I think the wildest mod ani kay resleeving the block and put a 60 mm. piston to make a 214 CC on each cylinder, a total of 856 CC instead of a 75 mm. piston (1343 CC) pero mangavass sa ko kung pilay pa resleeve hehehe




    D13B4


    • Found in:
      • 19962002 Honda City LXi/EXi/DX, 1995-2000 Honda Civic EK2
        • Displacement : 1,343 cc (82.0 cu in)
        • Bore and Stroke : 75.0 mm 76.0 mm (2.95 in 2.99 in)
        • Compression: 9.75:1
        • Power: 95 PS (70 kW) at 6,500 rpm[2] (City)
          91 PS (67 kW) at 6,300 rpm[3] (Civic)
        • Torque: 119 Nm (12.1 kgm; 88 lbft) at 4,700 rpm[2] (City)
          114 Nm (11.6 kgm; 84 lbft) at 4,800 rpm[3] (Civic)
        • Valvetrain : SOHC (four valves per cylinder), 16 valves
        • Fuel Control : Multi-point fuel Injection, PGM-FI
    Last edited by KH0UJ; 07-27-2014 at 07:34 AM.

  2. #2
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    Ilara ang water temperature sensor aron ma fixed nimo ang rpm even at cold start. Kung mailad nimo kana nga sensor, sayon nalang unya nimo mailad ang ubang sensors so that the system will behave the way you desired. Kining efi, pangilad ni nga design and it will require nga mangilad pud ka aron makuha nimo imong gusto nga mahitabo when it comes to fuel efficiency. However, ang nindot himoon ani aron dako ang improvement sa fuel efficiency mao ang pag vaporize sa fuel which does not exist in an efi and conventional carburetors. Other than that, use an alternative fuel that does not cost as much as your current fuel.

    mao ni ilang gibuhat kaniadto to improve fuel efficiency: http://www.apparentlyapparel.com/upl...00mpg-carb.pdf
    UrbaNo and ojosechalmer like this.

  3. #3
    Elite Member KH0UJ's Avatar
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    Unfortunately boss Vern my engine only has an ECT sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) and it`s a switch not a thermostatic resistor, para ra ni pa ON sa cooling fans when the coolant temperature reaches 80 celsius, wa pa sad gani ni primary ug secondary oxygen sensor, I only had a MAP, IACV, IAT, and CKF sensor, so kato pa gyud ning basic pa nga PGM EFI system, wala pa sad gani ni FITV nga engine design, pag break time nako ganiha I tried to time the first idle UP, at approximately 80 seconds that`s the time nga mu 750 rpm siya, so analyzing the engine schematics murag naa man sa ECU ang control, so it`s a time based actuation not thermally, maybe sa sunday akong tang tangon ang ECU and see what are the components used inside, familiar sad ko aning ECU kay mao ni akong tuno tunohon sauna using a laptop, though dili to ako-ang mga auto but ako ang gata-ud ug ga calibrate (Aftermarket racing ECU`s) I can even repair damaged ECU`s sauna hehehe

    Ako sad ning i total water reflush akong engine block, hoses, and the radiator using a pressure washer (1000 PSI) kay medyo naa nay rust deposits, mas maayo ni kung ma flushingan nako para worry free...





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    Kung mag resleeving ka boss.. Aside sa dako na trabaho.. Para sa nako...

    Power to weight ratio mausab, noticeable ni kung mag.aircon ka or kung loaded... Ma notice man gani maskin 1.5L..

    power output from engine Dili na balance sa tranny to diff..., just like motorcycles with slight different displacements lain.lain ug sprocket combination but unlike motorcycles na pretty straight forward ang pag replace... Kung Dili mo match...

    Mo kalas na no.on to cope up.... Sa akong lang na ha.... Though my experience were more on rear wheel drive engines and pairing them with different tranny and diff just for the sake of getting the best performance of an engine... But I think the analogy/ principle is more or less the same...


    Though sa gasoline ..vvt-i, vtec, vcm, and after market nga ignition coils nga capable ug tag.as na voltage..ug uban pa... Are for optimum performance and fuel efficiency..

    I don't know kung possible ba like diesel with the introduction of crdi... That the same concept would apply to gasoline... I agree with boss vernie nga kung ma vaporize nimo ang fuel more... Mas maka achieve ka high efficiency...

    Nindot ang diesel karon.. Aside sa crdi.. Though Kara.an ni na technology pero lately lang ni gi.adopt sa halos tanan... Naa sad silay vgt ug uban pa.. Mao na ma notice nimo na at the same displacement with the old Diesel engine or even mas lower pa karon pero ang torque kay mas taas...

    Cguro Dili na jud pwede sa gasolina... Kay daghan naman nga auto nag diesel na... Or basin nag hybrid or electric car na ang focus mao na medyo kutob nalang sa engine internal mods then electronically controlled to achieve optimum performance..

    But still sa kada ko sa kalibutan... Basin naa somewhere naka.imbento unsa on pag pa fuel efficient sa gasoline... Pwera lang anang mga gagmay na sakyanan nga mo achieve ug 20++ km/L... Klaro naman sad kaau na gud... Nga perting balance sa power to weight plus of course the existing mods...

    Pero ts... Kung naa kay makaplagan.. Share sad... Hehehe...
    Last edited by krishnu shivaq silquin; 02-22-2014 at 09:33 AM. Reason: Correction

  5. #5
    Elite Member KH0UJ's Avatar
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    hehehe pinakalast na gyud na ang resleeving boss, im still rebuilding the engine to it`s optimum condition, though it can run 12-13 Km/liter on it`s current setting, maski 1 is to 15 km. lang OK na ko hehe, BTW im done reflushing the engine block, radiator and hoses ganiha, gi-ahak nanakit akong likod sa kadaghang gipangibot, I modded the Water Thermostat para mas sensitive ang ECT switch, aside sa 87 celsius siya mu function karon 65 celsius ON na ang Fans, this way di dali ma brittle akong engine head gasket...

  6. #6
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    Kung sa pagkakaron wala kay mahimo para mausab ang iyang pagsaka sa rpm for 80seconds from cold start, ok ra na, ari bawia sa ubang butang. Naa bay injector nga pino ug spray nga pwede mailis ana? Nag exist ba na as aftermarket product?

    Nindot diay na butangan ug alternative fuel kay walay magsamok nga oxygen sensor. Sa nasulayan namo sa una, kaya ra makaabot ug 3 to 4 times the conventional km/liter ang sakyanan nato without compromising performance.

    Nakasulay ka ug groove (SOMENDER-SINGH.com - Grooves 101) sa cylinder head? Makatabang pud na ug improve sa performance. Maayo kay makalugar ka ug kuri-kuri sa imong makina, daghan ka ug mahimo ana.

    Another improvement nga pwede mahimo nimo mao ang shielding sa mga importante nga bahin sa electrical system. A simple aluminum foil can greatly help improve the electrical flow with less interference.

  7. #7
    Elite Member KH0UJ's Avatar
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    Naay injectors nga pino boss vern, it varies from 660cc up to 2.0 (2000cc) mas gamay ug pino ug spray ang mas gamay ug cc, though dili ma bolt-on plug & play ang gagmay kay maghimo pa ug adapter para sa manifold holes or machining the injector itself to fit to the manifold holes, way problema sa ako-a kay unay ko ug turnohan hehe

    About sa grooves boss vern ba murag doubtful man ko, ambot basig lahi sad to akong na experience sauna nya carb pa sad to (relying on the engine vaccum pressure) here it goes, naa koy duha ka cylinder head, ang duha akong gi experimentohan, akong gi kawtan ang isa 2mm ra gud, nahug ug akong gipadako ang combustion chamber, nya ang isa nako ka cylinder head ako pung gipagamyan, (refacing the surface) 2mm sad akong gi reface so nigamay sad combustion chamber...

    pagtesting nako sa larger chamber CH boss nidako ang suction pressure, nilahi ang andar, (Tgubtub) niminus na man nu-on ang pwersa nya nikalas ang gasolina, mas bugnaw ang makina, maski gi-ilisan na nako ug pinakagamay nga jettings, pila ka adlaw sad to nako nga dinala dala nga ingon ato, sunod higayon ato ako na pung gisalpak ang smaller chamber CH, ni one click one start akong motor, responsive na kaayo ang makina, medyo dali mu init ang makina pero nihinay ang tagubtub, gi try nako ug ilis ug bigger carb jettings, murag malumos man inig full throttle, so gibalik na pud nako ang katong akong gigamit last time katong pinakagamay nga jettings, lipay na ko ato nga set-up lami na kaayo i-overtake2x hehe kay naa man dayon response, pag abot ug 2 weeks nileaking akong cylinderhead gasket ahak , duda ko sobra ra sad akong pagamay ato sa combustion chamber, I ended up putting additional spacer sa CH which results to a 1 mm na lang ang minus, sukad ato wa na gyud to nako usba hantud nabaligya na lang tong motora mao na gyuy set-up ato...

    So analyzing my experience, the bigger the combustion chamber the more air is drawn to the combustion chamber due to a bigger area of the CH, air accumulation during downstroke of the piston is greater due to it`s larger chamber pero inig compression stroke bigger CH has less kick on the piston thus lesser torque...

    On the other hand a smaller combustion chamber draws smaller fuel/air volume on a downstroke BUT on a compression stroke it had a bigger kick on the piston due to it`s smaller area, the fuel/air detonation has more impact, pero on my case basin sobra ra sad to ka gamay kay muleaking man akong head gasket, (increasing a compression ratio on an engine) but then again sa carb engine to akong experience boss vernie I dont have a clue yet on these EFI systems kay murag no matter how strong the air vaccum still the same amount of gasoline is squirted on each cylinder...

  8. #8
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    Ang Somender groove, gamay ra na nga V ug porma nga hiwa ug layo ra pud sa edge sa gasket, di kaayo makaalter ug dako sa volume pero dako ang mahimong kausaban sa sulod kay ma tuyok ang flow sa flame in a consistent direction during combustion.
    Nakasulay mi ana sa bmw nga auto, nausab ang tingog ug ang performance pero wala sya mikalas since di man dako nga volume ang gipahak nga nag atubang kung asa ang spark plug. Naay mga sample photos sa mga head nga gipang groove on that site or makita nato sa ubang sites when searching using google.

    Naay nag share usa ka tao, sa laing country to sya, giunsa niya pag lean ang efi niya nga walay oxygen sensor, gi bypass niya ang sensor nga maminaw sa flow sa hangin, nagbuslot siya sa air intake after the sensor. In effect ang nakita sa sensor gamay ra nga hangin nga misulod pero in reality mas daghan ang nakasulod. Katawa gani ko pag pangita niya sa nindot nga gidaghanon sa hangin kay giagi niya ug usa ka hose kada usa, ang nahitabo daghang hose ang nag tusok sa iyang air intake tube ug kada hose naay fuel filter acting as air filter. In the end, the setup works perfectly sa iyang gikinahanglan after naabot ug 9 ka hose ang napaslak. hehe
    A variable valve will do for the by pass air passage, similar sa valve gigamit nato sa tubig.

    Ang amount of fuel nga irelease (the amount of "on" signal nga ihatag sa injector aron mag abli) mag agad na sa amount of air nga nakit-an sa sensor and some newer systems moagad pud na sa throttle position sensor. Inig mailad ning mga sensor, maka lean ka samot na walay oxygen sensor nga motug-an pila ang iyang nakit-an after combustion. Pero kining mga oxygen sensor, sayon ra pud ni sila ilaron since voltage ra man gihapon na ang ilang ihatag, pwede ra gihapon ka mo hatag ug imong signal pero dynamically proportional gihapon kung unsay current nga kahimtang.

  9. #9
    Elite Member KH0UJ's Avatar
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    Akong gi una ang A/C system boss vernie kay murag duda man gyud ko kay medyo mafeel nako nga taas2x ug braking HP ang compressor inig ON, taas2x ug inat ang IAC motor para maka compensate sa A/C compressor load, wa gyud ko masayop 195 PSI ang high side pressure ahak uy, maayo to primyuhan ang ga service sa A/C ani sauna sa previous owner pa, I found out nga air contaminated ang A/C system, that results to a higher braking HP on the A/C compressor thus consuming more fuel on the engine hahayzz, karon kay tungod wa may trabaho kay holiday man, ako na pung gikalingawan ug bungkag2x ang aircon hehehe










    from 8:00am hapit na gyud 4:00pm ko nahuman kay ako pung gipang modify ang mismo A/C system controls to respond more to the cabin temperatures and most of all to bring back the system to it`s original set-up, dili overcharged ug refrigerant, di sad contaminated, mas ubos na sad ang compensation sa IAC motor kay gibalik nako ug 650 grams ang refrigerant content plus gadungag sad kog polyolester oil sa system kay pag drain nako sa old charge wa man lang gyud nitulo maski gamay oil akong mga hoses, ang previous ni service siguro ani basta kay tang2x lang diretso nya walay dungag2x ug lubrication, wa say vaccumay paita biya hehehe, now I had a perfect A/C system with lesser braking HP, and colder too and most of all a minimum cost due to D-I-Y ra man ako-ang gibuhat....


    Next would be the ECU itself nyahahaha, diretsuhon na lang nako ug modify sa ECU Boss verns uy kay mas sayon kaysa didto ko mag ilad2x sa mismo mga sensors (TPS, MAP, etc) neutral ra ug gear 5 akong targeton ani kay ang 1-4 gear mas taas sad ug idle speed while pressing the clutch, it`s a factory default, adto ra ko diretso mu mod sa mismo ECU and using only a couple of resistors and some signal diodes mao ni gitawag sa uban nga lean burn on all gears pero ilang gi ilad ang mismo drivetrian sensor, magpalahi sad ko sa ako-a hehehe
    lolo bosing likes this.

  10. #10
    C.I.A. jonz's Avatar
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    post nya dri boss sa before ug after ug unsa imong g buhat, before naa mnkoy EG hatch nga D15b Vtec, 1.5 to cya nga japan surplus, pag kuha nko 1:7-9 city driving, after fine tuning, mo abot to ug 1:12-13 sa city driving, including aggressive driving (reaching redline) ekonomiya mn dyd bsta ma tarong lang ug tono ug bsta condition ang makina, with what you are doing, makatabang dydna para ang uban sad masayod unsaon pag save sa gasolina(less gas consupmtion=savings)

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